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Whitish Smoke?

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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 01:34 PM
  #16  
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How many miles on the injectors, are they grey? Return lines and o-rings should all be new if the engine was apart for rings! If they re-used the old returns lines they are likely sucking air which may be the problem. I replaced my injectors- had about 150 k miles, smoked all the time as the pop off pressures had got too low, they leaked and dribbled fuel on a pop test. Remans fixed up the problem, better milage, better power.
Timing - should rattle with cold advance on when you accelerate, rattle goes away when cold advance cuts out.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #17  
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They used the same return lines when they rebuilt it. I think it would probably be best to replace all of the injectors and lines. How much should the injectors cost? I know my friend just paid about $900 for a set on his 99' Powerstroke.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 02:58 PM
  #18  
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Injectors are $30ea give or take. Y ou can pull them out and see if the tips are wet, that means they leak. I just pulled mine and 5 were bad, lots of gray smoke at idle and a cloud when I got on it.
 
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 05:53 PM
  #19  
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new IP, injectors and return lines should be well under $900.

hate to possibly insult you, but is the air filter and fuel filter clean?
whats the fuel pressure looking like at the filter output? might want to check it out before swapping out fuel system.

online Midwest Fuel injection seems to get rave reviews.
I'm more of a fan of having a local shop rebuild my pumps/injectors.
course I almost got arrested at a fuel injection shop.... so maybe in my case I should order online :-)
 
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Old Sep 20, 2008 | 09:08 PM
  #20  
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How many miles since the engine was rebuilt?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #21  
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All of the filters are new. That is always the first thing I do whenever I get a car or truck. How would I check the pressure at the filter output?

The engine probably only has a couple of hundred miles on it since it was rebuilt. But it had been sitting for about 9 months before i bought it.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 02:32 PM
  #22  
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With only a couple hundred miles on an overhaul, and the fact the engine was not bored but probably honed and stock pistons with new rings, the rings are not seated.
And I have to wonder what the ring end gaps look like.

If the gaps are excessive, and the rings have not seated, you are going to have more blow by than normal and slightly lower compression than normal.

From my experience it takes about 30,000 miles to seat a set of new rings on bored and honed cylinders.


Lower compression would compound any problems with injectors either leaking or not spraying correctly.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 02:42 PM
  #23  
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I had originally thought that I would just drive this around for awhile and hopefully break the engine in a little bit, but its a pain to drive simply because of the lack of power. It takes me a little over a mile to reach 60mph. And that is almost redlining it before I shift. I knew I was gonna have a problem with the original cylinders, but I didn't think it would be nearly this bad. I might swap in some new injectors and lines and see what that does for me.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 02:46 PM
  #24  
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I would start by pulling the injectors, look for wet tips on the injectors when you pull them.
Wet tips indicate the injector is not sealing when they pop closed.
Another good thing would be a compression test.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 03:09 PM
  #25  
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A buddy of mine has a compression gauge that we used for my old 460. Would it work for a diesel? Or do I need a specific gauge? I would use the glowplug openings to check compression right?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:06 PM
  #26  
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The glow plug opening is good, the compression gauge should go to at least 500 PSI.

22.5 to 1 compression does get the numbers up there.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #27  
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Ya it would. I think his gauge goes up to 700psi. I'll have to go out and check the injectors and give him a call as soon as the Colts game is over with. I'll report back if I notice anything strange with the injectors
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:22 PM
  #28  
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Run the compression test first.
You are looking for compression in the 400+ pound range and the lowest compression should be within 10% of the highest.

If the highest cylinder is 400 PSI, the the lowest should be over 360 PSI.
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #29  
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Too late. Sorry. I'll put them back in and try and run a comp test early in the week.

I started pulling the injectors, and they were nasty. All four cylinders on the driver's side were covered in a thick black paste that smelled burnt. The right side were all wet and looked like they had been leaking really bad. One of them was cracked. What could this pasty stuff be?
 
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Old Sep 21, 2008 | 08:00 PM
  #30  
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That paste is probably soot, oil and fuel.

Sounds like you have found the problem.
The cracked one is probably where the white smoke is originating from.


When I said compression test first, I was just trying to do the cheap thing first.
You need new O rings and crush washers at a minimum when you pull the injectors.
Since you now know the injectors are all leaking or worse, you might not need the compression test.
 
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