Hi, all ...

I am working on my EAB carb for my flathead. Apparently the carb sat for a while with either moisture, or even water in the bowl. The bottom of the bowl has some corrosion - white, powdery stuff, but pretty darn firmly attached.

Does anyone have an easy way to remove it? Carb cleaner, even the serious soaking kind (not NEAR what we USED to be able to buy!!) doesn't cut it. I've thought about finding a Dremel bit, that's a wire-wheel, and tackling it with that, but if there's an easier/better/smarter way, I'd try that.

I do know that we used to remove the junk from our RC engines with oven cleaner, but that was baked-on oils, etc, and not corrosion...

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

TIA,

R

 

Commercial carb cleaning services actually boil it out with an alkaline solution; I think it's caustic soda solution heated to near boiling. I'd make REAL SURE what chemical it is before doing it!!! A web search will turn it up.

 

I use my glass bead blasting cabinet to clean up old carb castings.. If you do that, be sure you get all the galleys and passages cleaned out. Use air first, then soak in clean cleaner, and dry out with air again.

Later Man...

 

Toilet bowl cleaner. I use Werks from the dollar store. It's Cheap.
This works GREAT. First time I used was on a Marine carb. that was seriously corroded with white oxide. Let it soak for about 10-15 min. then rinse with water. Use in a well ventilated area, fumes can get strong. May have to scrape the heavy stuff some and repeat(make sure it's dry).
I've also have used it several times on corroded alum. It cleans that white oxide right off. The gel type toilet bowl cleaner works best on large alum. areas because it clings better.

 

Try this:
1220 Degreaser / Carburetor Cleaner

Toilet bowl cleaner is basically lye, pretty strong stuff!

 

I havn't had to buy any lately, but the last time I did it was a dollar a bottle at the Dollar Store. Also it's labeled "The Works". I help a friend out at his transmission shop and I tried it on a old C-4 case that was corroded inside and out and considered scrap. After cleaning the dirt and oil off it, I dried it real good. Applied the TBC to the inside and out let sit about 10 min. then rinsed off with water, it had cleaned about 90% of the corrosion off. Dried it off and spot treated the other 10% for about 5 min. and rinsed. It was 100% clean and now could be used again. That was a few years ago and he was so impressed that he bought a case of the stuff and always keeps some on hand. I have since used it on dozens of transmission cases and a few carbs. I have brought back to life old trans. cases that would have been junked as scrap or just too ugly to use for a restoration. It doesn't make the alum. shine like new, but it does clean it real well. For a even look across the case apply the TBC over the entire case for a few min. then rinse. If left on too long it can darken the alum. and leave gray dusty film. Sometimes the case looks good enough to use as is after its been treated and some will need to be painted. Its a toss up depending on how bad it was and how long you treated it. I prefer the gel type for large areas because it doesn't run off like the liquid does and works better on those uneven areas.