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I pulled off the parking light cover on my 56 f100 to clean dust off the amber bulb. The bulb was frozen in the socket and I finally got it out with pliers. Upon inspection-the socket was wet and rusty and the contacts were frozen. I happened to have an extra socket and pigtail for it and I exchanged the two out.
Upon making the two bullet type connections for the lite- I'm now noticing the turn signal on that particular corner doesn't work. It lights up when the parking lights only are on,and strangely enough it flashes at the same time as the opposite side turn signal is flashing. But it refuses to flash when it's side is turned on.
I switched the connectors thinking somehow it would matter. No luck. Does anyone have an idea what I did wrong?
These sockets were made to function one of two ways (and they are different sockets): There should be two wires. In one scenario, one wire provides power to the socket, the other provides the gound. In the second scenario, the socket itself is grounded and BOTH wires provide power - one to the signaling/brake filiment, and one to the running light filiment.
Although I'm not sure why that would apply if the sockets were the same. Most two contact sockets are gounded through the socket body not the wires.
I would check that the two sockets are in fact identical, then check that the connections are not reversed, and third, make absolutely certain that the socket is grounded properly. Also, check to make sure you have the right bulb installed.
Thanks for the quick comeback. Now-a stupid question-if the socket wasn't grounded-I would think it wouldn't light up at all. The only thing it doesn't do is -it doesn't flash when it's turn signal is on-it does light up with parking lights and [even though it shouldn't] it flashes when the opposite side signal is turned on. Very confusing.
I did call Mid 50 F100 because the part came from them. The socket doesn't have a way to tightly secure itself in the existing parking assembly. It sits in the hole that the old socket came out of-but it's not as tight as it should be. I am expecting a return call from their "tech" because the socket just doesn't seem to fit like it should. Anyway-while I was on the phone earlier with them-I ordered a new park light base and socket to cover all the bases.
Anyway-I'll let you know after I hear back from them. Thanks again!!!
In my experience very weird lighting issues like this are caused by bad grounds. I have had similar where one side only flashes when the other is supposed to and can't explain it either but I would first check the ground, maybe just run a jumber wire from the base to a good ground and see what happens. If it's not very snug in the mount hole it's not grounding like it should. Another thing to check is to be sure the pigtails aren't somehow bending and contacting each other when you insert and twist the bulb to lock in place. I have had that happen on a cheaper pigtail bought at one of the chain stores.
I'm think you guys are right. I talked to Candy at MID 50 F100 and she agreed saying that if the socket wasn't SNUG [which it wasn't] that there most likely was a bad ground. She said she would knock off the price of the socket against the new parking light base assembly that I was ordering from them.
I think this was a pretty nice gesture on Mid 50's part and that's why I'll do business again with them. I'll let you know how it goes. THANKS!
so, what double filament bulb do you use? i need to replace mine, haven't been perfect since resto. need double filament bulb, 12volt, with both tabs even, not offset. for some reason, i can't seem to find these. obsolete?
The bulb should be an 1176 if the socket is set up for both parking lights and signals (in the front). If both of your front lights flash when you turn on the blinker for the other side, you have a wire/flow hook-up crossed between your parking light and the signal light. HOWEVER, that may be caused by a bad ground and the new socket being back fed through the ground of the other light.
I'm assuming it was working right before - right? Also, we never quite knew - are we talking about running lights (back) or parking lights (front) - makes a big difference. If you want look in my gallery and print out the light wiring scematic just to check you wire paths.
Yes, everything worked fine before I started. The problem is the passenger side front parking light. Not sure what the bulb is because it's dark outside now. It all started when I purchased halogen bulbs for all four lights[not headlights]. When I got to the problem with the parking light- I put all the old bulbs back in thinking there was a small chance that the halogen bulbs might have been the problem. Wrong!
julie, i have t-1176 bulbs and the tabs are offset???? maybe the "t" designation??? set up for both park and turn. always worked, but bulb was never truly seated in socket.
Thanks for the quick comeback. Now-a stupid question-if the socket wasn't grounded-I would think it wouldn't light up at all. The only thing it doesn't do is -it doesn't flash when it's turn signal is on-it does light up with parking lights and [even though it shouldn't] it flashes when the opposite side signal is turned on. Very confusing.
I did call Mid 50 F100 because the part came from them. The socket doesn't have a way to tightly secure itself in the existing parking assembly. It sits in the hole that the old socket came out of-but it's not as tight as it should be. I am expecting a return call from their "tech" because the socket just doesn't seem to fit like it should. Anyway-while I was on the phone earlier with them-I ordered a new park light base and socket to cover all the bases.
Anyway-I'll let you know after I hear back from them. Thanks again!!!
Not haveing a ground or a good ground causes the bulb to split the voltage in half and seek a ground though the other filement circuit and back through the system to anoter light, through it's filement and to ground. The best way to test for this is get a clip lead hooked to a 12V source, (Pos terminal of your battery), and test one wire at a time at the socket. If both filements work individually, your problem is not the socket or bulb. If neither one works you have a bad ground. The outside sleve of the socket is the ground for both filements. Go to a trailer place or even Wal Mart and get some of that grease they use in trailer conectors and put it in the socket before you put in the bulb. It will keep out moisture and the bulb will come out easy when it needs replaced. It also keeps stuff from corroding. You might be able clean up the socket wth a battery terminal brush. Also the spring that keeps the contacts against the bulb could be stuck or broken. Before you use the grease clean out the socket and use an electrical grade silicone based spray penetrant like CRC's 2-26 or 3-36.
julie, i have t-1176 bulbs and the tabs are offset???? maybe the "t" designation??? set up for both park and turn. always worked, but bulb was never truly seated in socket.
Ok, good info. If your socket wont support offset pins then you have to get sockets that do or find a double filiment bulb that has two contacts on the base with both pins close to the bottom - lotsa luck. Even so, they are usually too tall and melt the parking light lenses.
I don't suppose you kept the old bulb, but I'll bet ya $20 that it had the pin closest to the bulb (as opposed to closer to the base) filed off.
Just for giggles and grins, get an 1176 and file off the pin in the center of the base and leave the one close to the base. Try putting it in that way - bet it works.....
J!
PS. The bulbs always stick in the sockets when you file a pin down too - maybe why yours was so tough to get out. Mine is like that - can't find a two filiment bulb with even pins and two contacts and too cheap to change out the lights. So, I file BOTH the pins off - bulb is tight enough to stay put. Works fine.
I went back out to check my last post and here is the true story.
On my front parking lights I have GE 1157 Amber bulbs. These have the pins offset at different levels and I have them filed off to fit in the socket.
I think I did that because I couldn't find an amber bulb with pins that were even.
HOWEVER, I did have a couple older clear bulbs I had used up there and tested them both in the sockets tonight - and they worked. They are a GE 1158 or a GE1176. The pins on the 1176 are both even at the bottom - contrary to what I told you above. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two bulbs - they are configured exactly the same - brightness perhaps.
So back to my original statement: If your sockets have the detent even, either put in an 1176/1158 or if you want amber get the 1157 and file off the posts. If your detents are uneven, then use the 1157 as is. Note though, that I had to "tweek" the alignment of all those bulbs to get them to light up. Put them in, turn on your parking lights (first position on your headlight switch) and slowly twist the bulb in either direction until it lights. Then try your signals. If the parking light is bright and the signal dimmer, flip the bulb 180 degrees.
J!
PS But I still really think your new socket was made to support two contact/one filiment light bulbs and be grounded through the second wire, not the socket body.
I just checked the bulb and it's an 1157 amber.I ran another ground from the screw for the parklite that is inside the gravel pan to a wire squeezed inbetween the bulb and the inside of the socket. I sanded the area around the screw to make sure there was exposed metal for good ground. Still no blinking turn signal unless I turn on the opposite side-THEN it blinks.
I would say trace all your wires & do as dave mentioned use a test light to make sure you have the signal or brake wire going to the correct filament. Also check the wires at the socket & about a foot from the socket to make sure something isn't screwed up in the socket even though it seems like a simple piece. I had the same problem when I change my tail-lights to new original type after markets, the piece of epoxy on the inside of the socket wasn't lineing up once the bulb was turned into position. I had to file off some of the epoxy piece to get it working.
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