When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need to Change my exhaust manifold on the pass side. I'm worried about breaking off bolts in the head like I did on the parts engine. Broke all 4 bottom bolts but I did not take my time.
so I need to know any and all tricks to save time and money Please.
Soak for days with PB Blaster. Smack the head of the bolt with a hammer and use a 3/8 air ratch or impact wrench. If you are lucky the will come out, if not a breaker bar and then after you break them, drill them out or have them melted out with a torch after the head is off. Replace with stainless bolts and they won't stick again.
If your bottom ones all broke, then the upper ones are going to be worse as they are open bottom holes and that is a real downfall of these heads.
There is no saving grace with these, and it's just luck in how you get them out. Using a torch to preheat the head area will sometimes allow them to unscrew without breaking, but if the bolt is rusted and weak it's going to break no matter.
Never had any luck in melting old bolt outta heads without ruining threads. Best bet is to drill them out(get new sharp bits) and retap them. It's no fun and unless you pull the heads and have them done at machine shop it's going to be tough.
If your bottom ones all broke, then the upper ones are going to be worse as they are open bottom holes and that is a real downfall of these heads.
There is no saving grace with these, and it's just luck in how you get them out. Using a torch to preheat the head area will sometimes allow them to unscrew without breaking, but if the bolt is rusted and weak it's going to break no matter.
Never had any luck in melting old bolt outta heads without ruining threads. Best bet is to drill them out(get new sharp bits) and retap them. It's no fun and unless you pull the heads and have them done at machine shop it's going to be tough.
I quess I'm spoiled, have a buddy who is probably the best welder in the state and has repaired a number of things I had thought were beyond fixing.
Ya, good to have friends like that. I have a very good friend that's a fabricator and does wonder with metal, but to blow out a 3/8" bolt and not hurt the original casting sounds like a real trick. I'd do a 1" bolt, but nothing that small.
Ya, good to have friends like that. I have a very good friend that's a fabricator and does wonder with metal, but to blow out a 3/8" bolt and not hurt the original casting sounds like a real trick. I'd do a 1" bolt, but nothing that small.
Actually the steel bolt will melt way below the melting point of the cast iron in the head. I've seen him do it several times on my FE heads.
The machinist i've been working with heats the ear with a torch till it starts to glow bright red (not orange/yellow) and then bastes it with a stick of clear wax. Of coarse it has to have a little something to grab at. Otherwise just center punch it, drill it out and and use a thread chaser.
A couple good raps on the head, straight down, like driving a nail in.
Right O. This helps "set" the bolt and allow the spray oil to get into the threads. I use a good size brass drift as not to damage anything. And still get a good whack at it.
you guys prefer PB blaster over liquid wrench?Seems like when I use PB it doesn't lubricate as well.Have had much better luck w/ the latter
I've found that over the years that PB Blaster works better, with corrosion and rust. I worked in the marine industry at a salt water marina and the PB was better for than Liquid Wrench.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.