Power Window Removal/Rebuild
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New User
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Elgin, Illinois
Power Window Removal/Rebuild
First off, thanks for having such a great tech forum. The title of the thread says it all. I have been having trouble with the motor for about a year. Finally decided to do some research and fix it.
Symptoms: motor runs, won't hold window up, but will lower it, once. LOL
1989 Ford F250 XLT Lariat 4x4. 7.5L Gasser
As I read in a few other threads, it turned out to be the rubber "cylinder", or shock absorbers in the lift gear that had disintegrated.
Suggestions were to use 3/8 ball bearings or wood dowels, or purchase the rebuild/lift kit from Advanced Auto Parts. I did the latter. Glad I did. $20 and it's done.
That said, the rubber cylinders measure a little closer to 7/16ths, both in diameter and length. I would recommend using rubber instead of metal or would because the motor doesn't have a limit switch, and using something solid would be a good way to strip the plastic gear or worse, strip the worm gear in the motor itself.
I had to drill 2 holes and do some snipping to access the motor bolts. Easy enough....the dimples, as posted, show the way. My motor had 5/16th hex head bolts. I would go this route versus drilling out the rivets. Really not difficult. Just remove the speaker too for access.
Attached are a few pics for reference. Ted
motor, with grease and rubber pieces removed
After removal. Pic of holes drilled and snipping
Rubber pieces. The root of all problems
Old and new lift gear. Length of gear irrelevant
Pic of plastic gear w/rubber, minus lift gear
Thanks again everbody. Ted
Symptoms: motor runs, won't hold window up, but will lower it, once. LOL
1989 Ford F250 XLT Lariat 4x4. 7.5L Gasser
As I read in a few other threads, it turned out to be the rubber "cylinder", or shock absorbers in the lift gear that had disintegrated.
Suggestions were to use 3/8 ball bearings or wood dowels, or purchase the rebuild/lift kit from Advanced Auto Parts. I did the latter. Glad I did. $20 and it's done.
That said, the rubber cylinders measure a little closer to 7/16ths, both in diameter and length. I would recommend using rubber instead of metal or would because the motor doesn't have a limit switch, and using something solid would be a good way to strip the plastic gear or worse, strip the worm gear in the motor itself.
I had to drill 2 holes and do some snipping to access the motor bolts. Easy enough....the dimples, as posted, show the way. My motor had 5/16th hex head bolts. I would go this route versus drilling out the rivets. Really not difficult. Just remove the speaker too for access.
Attached are a few pics for reference. Ted
motor, with grease and rubber pieces removed
After removal. Pic of holes drilled and snipping
Rubber pieces. The root of all problems
Old and new lift gear. Length of gear irrelevant
Pic of plastic gear w/rubber, minus lift gear
Thanks again everbody. Ted
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 21
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From: Elgin, Illinois
Bump and update
Just an update to the original post. The window tensioner rebuild kit runs $20 from Advanced Auto........
but today I was in there for an unrelated item.....and found just the tension plugs (the rubber pieces pictured on my truck bed) for $7.98 in the "help" products aisle, with the small plastic pieces nobody can find. It's not listed on their site....I just accidentally found them. FYI, Ted
P.S. I also, with the help of the Search function on this Forum, replaced my heater core today. Super easy, and thanks. Ted
but today I was in there for an unrelated item.....and found just the tension plugs (the rubber pieces pictured on my truck bed) for $7.98 in the "help" products aisle, with the small plastic pieces nobody can find. It's not listed on their site....I just accidentally found them. FYI, Ted
P.S. I also, with the help of the Search function on this Forum, replaced my heater core today. Super easy, and thanks. Ted
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