how do I pull front wheel on 83 4x4?
Thanks
J. Paul Whitehurst
1955 22nd St.
Northport, AL 35476
1.205.339.5151
whandwh(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
You've probably already figured this out by the time you read this. Hopefully you haven't BFH'd it yet. If you beat those rotor hubs up water gets in real quick. It sounds like you forgot about the spindle nut. You either need that standard four tit 4x4 socket(that fits almost every four wheeler ever made) or the ratchet type nuts Ford played with for about seven years(around '86-94). Both sockets look very similar, but the ratchet one has a smaller circle.
Thanks
Paul Whitehurst
whandwh(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
205.339.5151
1955 22nd St.
Northport, AL 35476
Jason
I just pulled the front wheel off my 81' 4x4 and had trouble seeing the keeper wire thing inside the hub. Pick it out, I used a bent sharp nail, like he said and it all comes off.
Thanks,
Keith
`82 F-250 Custom** 4x4 ** 351W ** 39.5--15x16.5** SS- TSL`s ** 6" Lift ** Granny 4-speed**** If you can`t run with the BIG DOGS , stay on the porch!!!
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By the way, the reason I am taking it off is to repair/replace the rotor. For some reason the outside brake pad was worn down to the metal. However the inside shoe looked fine and showed very little wear. This seemed amazing to me because the inside shoe is the one that is against the piston. Does anyone have an explanation for the huge discrepancy in the wear or how I can prevent this from happening again?
Thanks
J. Paul Whitehurst
1955 22nd St.
Northport, AL 35476
1.205.339.5151
whandwh(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I can't remember the procedure, but if you search the web, you should be able to find how to break in the pads. If you pull the rear drums & either of the tiny cables coming from the top is slack, that autoadjuster is seized.
>hub. I took the cap off. I took the retaining ring off the
>axle. I unscrewed the screw that holds the retaining plate
>and removed the plate. At this point I thought the hub body
>should come right out. I have been unable to budge it.
>What am I doing wrong?
>
>Thanks
>J. Paul Whitehurst
>1955 22nd St.
>Northport, AL 35476
>1.205.339.5151
>whandwh(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
If it is the same as my '73 was (Spicer Hubs), you've missed a major nut in there

After you remove all the outer junk, and the hub, there is a BIG nut deep down inside there that actually holds the rotor/bearing assy in place. There may be a flat-steel bend-over retainer as well.
If you are going to be servicing your truck yourself, you should invest in the special tool that's made for removing this nut. It isn't that expensive and will save you a ton of hassle. It's basically a big socket about 2.5" in diameter with four little prongs on it. This is used to remove and replace that big nut.
Remember, this nut is what pre-loads the bearings. Make sure you get it back in there and adjusted correctly!
Again, this is _if_ it is the same setup as my '73 was.
I had a LOT of practice with this on my '73. Those Spicer hubs SUCKED, and were forever sticking, which prevented 4X4 from engaging at the worse times. I wanted to replace them with a set of Warn hubs, but at the time I was very young and quite broke

I remember on occasion having to poor hot water over the hubs to get them engaged if it was particularly cold outside. I'd actually hear them 'snap' into place as I was pouring the hot water on them

Those things I cleaned and lubricated I know 20 times, and they never did work right from the day the truck was brand new.
The truck was a suprise birthday present. My dad bought it some 6 weeks earlier, brand new, as a work farm truck. It was an F150, pretty bare with the 360 and heavy duty 4 speed and a few other heavy duty options. The day after he bought it the thing left him on the side of the road with the transmission stuck in 1st gear, which was a true granny gear in that transmission. It was towed to the shop where it sat for FIVE weeks waiting for parts. One day, about a week before they finally finished fixing it, he drove up in a new Chevy pickup. I asked him what he was doing about the Ford? He threw me the keys and said "Happy Birthday. If you can ever get the GD thing out of the shop, it's yours"

I drove it for 3 years before trading it in and the hubs were a pain till the day I sold it.
Larry
>help.
>
>By the way, the reason I am taking it off is to
>repair/replace the rotor. For some reason the outside brake
>pad was worn down to the metal. However the inside shoe
>looked fine and showed very little wear. This seemed
>amazing to me because the inside shoe is the one that is
>against the piston. Does anyone have an explanation for the
>huge discrepancy in the wear or how I can prevent this from
>happening again?
>
>Thanks
>J. Paul Whitehurst
>1955 22nd St.
>Northport, AL 35476
>1.205.339.5151
>whandwh(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Make sure you clean and lubricate the area where the caliper 'slides' on itself. It sounds like it has been binding up.
Also make sure the piston isn't frozen, but don't press on the brake with the caliper off unless you intend to rebuild it

Larry



