So I wanted a tach. Didn't have one. My truck is a non-tach truck. I got a ip housing with the tach sensor in it from pick-your part. I followed the instructions below to the "T." (Thanks Dave) I DID NOT MOVE THE IP GEAR AT ALL. Now it's all back to gether. I routed two wires up to the tach. THe tach works ok. It doesn't seem stable though. At idle the needle will fall a bit, then catch it's self. Maybe I'll buy a new sensor just cuz. Dunno.
Quesion: Are the two wires that come off the sensor interchangeable?

My new problem: Getting the Timing back to where it was: Bang on.
What I've done:
a) Tried the line marks right on: Smoked way too much (the truck never smokes nless there is heavy throttle)
b) Advanced it (towards passenger side one tick length). Sounded GREAT at start up. When I went to drive it, it felt gutless. And with about 1/3 throttle it poured out the smoke.
c) Advanced it more(2 1/2) ticks: It chattered WAY too much than it normally did. Power seemed ok though. Not sure where to go from here (Other than to have someone time it for me)

Any advice?


"Actually it is not that hard to do. "

First loosen all the injection lines from the injectors.
Loosen the fuel supply line coming from the fuel filter.
Remove the IP return line from the IP.
Unplug all the wires.
Unhook the throttle cable.
Now remove the oil fill spout, remove the three 5/16" 12 point bolts from the IP drive gear.
Now remove the three 9/16" nuts that mount the IP to the drive gear cover.
Now you should be able to slide the IP back while raising the rear of the IP up.
With a little care, you should be able to remove the IP and injection lines as one unit.

After that is done, remove the four bolts that hold the IP grive gear cover down.
Very carefully lift the IP drive gear cover, but leave the IP drive gear settin on the cam drive gear.

As long as the gears do not become unmeshed, everything will be easy to get back together.

Clean the mating surfaces, a little RTV silicone on them, and you are ready to put it back together in reverse order.

 

Which set of marks are you using- most trucks have a heavy scribe mark on the IP and housing that Ford put on when they originally timed the engine-wont likely be the right place if housing and IP are not original! Navistar/Stanadyne have a much fainter scribe mark at the 12 o'clock position of the pump and the housing, make sure to use those marks for your referance.

Sounds like you are now too far advanced, each .015 of movement represents 1 degree of timing. Easiest way to be very close to ""on spec by ear is to have the rattle when you accelerate when the engine is still cold, but doesn't rattle on acceleration after the cold timing advance cuts off ( about 112 F).