2010 F250 S.D. gas 5.4 plain jane XL,purchased 2014 Sept. 80,000 Km. (49,700 miles).

What a disappointing response from the selling Ford dealership! Fuel tank not part of the drivetrain :-(

I suppose Ford sees the irony; most are purchased as WORK trucks, not Highway Toys.
Just the usual 'buyer beware'.

Thanks to all for passing on your experiences, and inexpensive solutions!
I too had a WTF moment when I spent 25 minutes trying to fill the tank the first time.

I like the rest of the mechanics, but this doesn't build 'brand loyalty'.

 

I discovered that if I insert the fuel nozzle into my tank inlet and then rotate the handle of the fuel nozzle counter clockwise until it is at what seems to be the 3:15 position, I can fill the tank without interruption. I hold it snug against the truck at that position and don't let it move at all. I discovered this by starting to rotate the handle a little bit every time the fuel flow got tripped off. When I got to 3:15, it stopped getting tripped. I have no idea if other positions will allow gas to go in the tank without interruption or not.

If it works for me, I bet it will work for others. Maybe the position will vary from truck to truck.

Update, Dec 29,2020:
Rotating the fuel pump handle from the usual six o'clock position to the 3:00 position has been working for me now for four years. The fuel nozzle retracts from the filler tube a little bit when the handle is rotated, and I think that allows some air into the filler tube. It's not a fix, but a delay in doing an actual repair. If it stops working I'll try other positions, like 2:45 or 2:00, etc.

 

Mine was that way too for a while. Then it didn't matter what position the handle was in when filling it up. Cleaning out the canister and filter fixed it!

 

I just solved this problem on my '07 F350 V10. Some of the earlier posts mentioned blowing out the lines, so that is what I did.

Steps:

1. Dropped the spare to gain access to charcoal canister.
2. Removed hose that connects the canister to the purge vent solenoid
3. Blew compressed air into the canister several times at about 40 PSI
4. Blew compressed air into purge vent solenoid
5. Removed hose connecting the purge vent solenoid to the dust separator (filter)
6. Blew air into the dust filter for several minutes.
7. Reconnected all hoses

Unfortunately, the PO on my truck must have thought that the filler neck was bad an replaced it with one that looks nothing like the OEM in that it has an extra hole and tube at the top of the filler neck. He apparently cut the vent line and used a piece of rubber hose to connect the vent line from the filler neck to the vent line that goes to the vent system. I'm sure he did this so he wouldn't have to lower the fuel tank to replace the filler neck. I doubt anything was wrong with the original fuel neck except that he probably thought "gas won't go in, fuel neck must be problem".

Since I had access to the vent lines on the opposite end, I removed his rubber hose and blew compressed air into the lines near the filler neck, too. I then took it to the gas station and put 11 gallons in it and the pump never shut off until the tank was full. Problem solved!

You can't see the rubber hose on the vent tube in this photo but you can see the extra tubing at the top of the filler neck with a screw in it and a clamp around it. I think this might be for a diesel or something. Not sure.

 

I have this same problem on my 07 V10. I tried blowing out a couple of the lines still didn't work right. So for now I pull the hose of the evap valve under the hood during fill up. Hopefully soon I will be taking my bed off to repaint the frame. I plan on replacing the canister with the Dorman equivalent. Then maybe relocating the air intake and putting something like a breather filter/ air line filter on it.
Not sure if anyone has tried putting a filter vent line. Many of us use our trucks on work sites and I would rather replace a filter (that I hopefully can relocate to convenient spot)

The Ford parts to solve this problem seem ridiculous. $100+ for vent relocation kit, $200-300 for the canister

 

Newbie here, my first post … please be gentle…

I’m trying to get my new to me 2006 F250 Super duty 5.4L to take fuel like it’s supposed to. I’ve read this thread and many others, however, I think this truck has been … “modified”. I don’t have a “vent tube” exiting the box collector and I don’t see one that has been disconnected. From what I understand there should be a tube running out the exit side of the box, and on my vehicle there’s nothing …

I have two questions: Question 1) I watched this video ( ) describing a routing of a vent tube all the way to the air box under the hood. Anybody else done that? How’s that working for you?

Question 2) I’d like to be able to disconnect the entire evaporator assembly. How does the vent tube that runs to the rear and hooks up to the driver’s side of the evaporator disconnect? It appears that there is a clip type connector running to the left side of the evap canister. I don’t want to damage that connection but I would really like to be able to get that entire unit off of the vehicle. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Having a similar issue with my 2012 f250. I am new to this truck so if anyone has pics of this vent hose or the truckbed support in question it would be greatly appreciated if you could share it. Thanks

 

I am new to F250's. Just purchased a 2012 to haul our RV. Having the fuel filling issue that many are discussing here. I am wondering where in the 2012 Engine (under the hood) is the evap valve mentioned above? I am hoping to resolve this issue without having to take it in for costly servicing. Thanks in advance,

 

Holy thread from the dead.

Your charcoal canister is clogged with dirt or has been flooded with fuel and the media is clogged. I had the same issue on my 2013; it would not fill with fuel and took close to 30 minutes to trickle it in to prevent the pump from kicking off because the tank could not vent (verified by blowing air through the charcoal canister and seeing the restriction). Replaced the charcoal canister, EVAP purge valve and PCV valve with Motorcraft parts from rock auto and all is well again. No more slow fuel fill issues.

It's about a 30 minute job to change these parts and I believe it cost me just shy of $120.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, it was the charcoal cannister and line in, that was full of dirt and rocks. With replacement of parts, labour, and the diagnostics I was about 700US (1000CDN) in for the job. So far so good though.

 

I see there is some newer reply's on here so hopefully I can get some answers. I have been having this issue on my 2010 F250 V10. The dealership did a smoke test said that the vapor canister needed to be replaced. I took it to a local shop for a cheaper price. When he dropped the spare time one of the vent tubes fell off. It was that loose. (The dealership did not drop the spare time due to me not having a key for the spare time. It was missing when I bought the truck). So we replaced the vapor canister and it actually made the problem worse. I think the hose being reconnected made it worse. So I was reading some of the quick fixes here like taking off a tube in the engine when filling; but that's not an option for me unless I keep a ladder with me every time I fill up. So, any other recommendations since I replaced my vapor canister and that didn't solve the problem??

 

I have a 2016 F250 and this happened to mine as well. I disconnected the air vent from the frame and the problem was gone for a short time.
I found a thread some where where a filter was added to the end of the vent hose. I cannot find it now. I will clean my canister and add a filter
once I find one. I will add pictures when I am done.

 

Does the canister run the full length from left frame to right frame like it appears?

I was thinking to drill holes vertically along that length. There are 1/2" holes in the panel as you can see in your photo.

 

they used different sizes for different years...on a 2005 gasser (5.4 & 6.8), it runs a few inches from each frame rail.....others are about the size of a shoebox.....but, O believe they are all mounted in the same location....above the spare tire location....

 

I think mine is about 3" diameter running from left to right frame above the spare as you say. Inlet on the driver's side outlet opposite and loop back into a solenoid then into a box about 2.5" x 2.5" x 12" that's back on the driver's side atop the canister.

I was able to get the hose off at that box and remove the box. Using compressed air I blew it out good and then blasted air into that hose that goes into the solenoid back into the canister and so on. Pressure would build and I could hear a leak around the solenoid and after I removed the air nozzle air would come back out for a few seconds. Clearly it built pressure somewhere. I had the gas cap off.

I tried a fill up today and it was perfect. I was parked slightly on an incline which may or may not be a factor. But it filled with no click off. We'll monitor over the next weeks.