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need help with a power valve replacement

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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 05:36 PM
  #1  
crazyjed's Avatar
crazyjed
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need help with a power valve replacement

can someone explain to me how to get to the power valve? I took out the four main bolts that hold the bowl in place, but can't see how to get the plate that holds the power valve off. It's a Holley two barrell on my 1959 styleside with a 292.

Thanks for your help
 
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Old Aug 31, 2008 | 11:56 PM
  #2  
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HT32BSX115
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From: Upper Left Coast
Howdy,

well it is difficult to tell without know exactly which carb you have.

Go HERE for an exploded view of a Holley 2300 series 2 bbl carb. The power valve is #45 in the illustration.

Here's a 2010 series too...

If that's not the one you have you can probably search around for it on the Holley site.

Regards,

Rick
 
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 01:11 PM
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metering body

Thanks Rick,

the exploded view is great! I do have a 2300 series. I'm probably missing something very obvious, but when I take the fuel bowl assembly off the front, what is holding the metering body on? I'm I approaching this wrong? I'm trying to get to the power valve from the front, do I need to take the carb off? This is my first venture into a carburator so I'm flying blind. Wanted to get this done today and local auto parts store is closed today so I can't get a book on Holleys.

Thanks again for your help
 
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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This may help:
Holley 4 bbl and 2 bbl modular carbs (1959)
 
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Old Sep 1, 2008 | 09:38 PM
  #5  
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ghall
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but when I take the fuel bowl assembly off the front, what is holding the metering body on?
IF you have the fuel bowl off and all four screws out....
most likely the gasket.... they get 'stuck' to the surfaces..
 
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Old Sep 10, 2008 | 10:23 PM
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thanks for all your help. As always I'm amazed at the amount of information and materials that you guys on this site can provide.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2008 | 01:50 AM
  #7  
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From: 83 mile house bc.
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Power Valve +M BLOCK Rem.[EVENLY APPLY 2>THIN EDGE TOOL SCREW DRIVERS/ECT.TO OPPOSITE SIDES OF M BLOCK WORK IT OUT OFF SET 4 SET STUDS CAN BE SNUG BUT NOT TO WORRY IT WILL COME OUT OKAY! [can Be Tight Fine Threaded Be Care Full To Use A Good Quality Open End Wrench Secured With Pressure Then Strike Down C.c.with Mallet /can Be Very Tight /or Use Good Thin Wall Socket If You Can Get Into It /its The Impact The Doe's It /check Spring +plunger For Damage/weakness [ And On Metering Block +gasket Small Bypass Hole On The Edge That It Aligns Correctly Or It Will Restrict Flow Through The Block [ The Holes Use To Be Rectangular In The 70's I Told Them Some Improperly Aligned And Designed Caused Flow Restriction So They Started To Cut Them Oval Pattern Much In Proved Good Basics Will Pay Off Hope This Helps Ps. Nice Holly Site Advice Guys
 

Last edited by don merke; Oct 21, 2008 at 02:13 AM. Reason: ADDED INFO NEEDED
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