First question is, do they make any difference in performance, friction, noise?

Second question is, how do they differ from OEM Rockers?

The motor I may be thinking about putting them on is a 78 400.

Bored to .30 over with TMI pistons
Double Roller timing setup
Stock rebuilt heads
Compcams camshaft,....I forget the number, but it's the one most peeps on here run.
Edel Performer intake and carb.
FRPP aluminum valve covers.

 

They do reduce friction and side to side wear on the valve ends but Probably don't make any measurable performance gains by themselves. You need them for adjustability if using a solid lifter or even aftermarket hydralics in some cases. You have to have studs installed or an adapter kit to hold them.

 

you will gain 10-15hp because of 2 reasons. reduced friction with the rollers, and the actual ratio for correct lift is actually near advertised ratio. also, if you are going to get them, get 1.73 ford ones not 1.7 chevy. there are many more differences than just the ratio and they will effect valve-train geometry.

 

I have decided to get a set of the Scorpion roller rockers from Tim. Can't beat $225 for full set that bolt right on. From what I have gathered, it seems like the roller rockers are not a performance upgrade, but will help with longevity of the valve stems, and reduce a little bit of friction.

 

Did i make a big mistake with crane energizer 1.7 roller rockers ?

 

Crane rockers are fine. I don't think anyone offers a ratio different from stock. The rollers are just a lot more accurate.

 

BBC vs Ford Rockers - Clevelands Forever!

 

My block was deck just to clean, the 3 sleeves change, a bit to straight everything and my aussie head gonna be also. Did i have to check pushrod lenght or i can adjust them with roller rocker ? I also have crane rocker arm stud/pushrod guideplate convertion kits. Never deal with that before.

 

You should be able to adjust the rockers with the Crane Conversion.

 

I have a set of Harlan Sharp roller rockers that I am trying to fit to my 351C-4V heads on my rebuilt 408. I do have some issues with the geometry.

They may wind up on Ebay.

It seems as though the pedastal was not milled or not milled enough. I can't get the pivot low enough to get the right travel across the valve because of the pedastal. They have 7/16" studs and guide plates.

I have a set of Crane Energizers on my 434. I am going to se if they fit any better. They are not as husky as the Harlan Sharps.

 

Danlee, you probably will need different length push rods.

 

I tried a Crane Energizer Roller Rocker from my 434, and it fits. Even the 8.8" pushrods from the 434 are good.

The Crane Energizer has a clearance area for the hex on the 7/16" stud, while the Harland Sharp doesn't have this clearance. Also the pivot point is at a different height and allows more clearance for the hex on the stud.

I have two different length studs with different heights for the hex. The thinner hex was better, but that's on the longer stud. I want to use the short stud, so I'll get the hex turned down.

Bear Tracks,

I didn't purchase pushrods yet, because I wanted to check the length that I need.

It looks like the Crane Energizer rockers and 8.8" hardened pushrods will work.

Look for 16 BBC Harland Sharp Roller Rockers on Ebay.

 

The Crane rockers may not be as husky, but mine are still hanging in there.

 

I have a few miles on mine with no problems.

 

I know it's a little late to jump in on this but a couple years ago me and another guy were playing with some different rockers and measuring ACTUAL valve lift. It's amazing how much difference there is between rockers, stockers can be off by several precentage points but since this was on a solid roller cam didn't really even try with stockers (we were measuring with full springs and mine were 850lb at open) a cheaper the cam was supposed to be .808 lift, the crane gold rockers and thier clones (FRPP blues, and TFS black rockers are both made by crane) setup with zero lash were in the .795 lift range, sharps (because only had 1.7 were way low (want to say around .770 but can't remmber for sure) cheaper versions like scorpions were getting into the .780 and below proform was even worse. Comps were close to he cranes around .790. The best was the crower stainless with .802 IIRC (but dang them is expensive LOL)
Basically some of the cheaper rockers were losing .030 of lift and if your building a cam to maximize and utilize your heads flow potential that is enough to actually measure on a dyno and on a track. So yes good rockers cost a little more but they can definitely increase your performance.
Heck look at it this way some of the milder and mid range cams are only increasing lift in the range of .025 over stock and the rockers can reduce it that much?
the little test convinced me to run the crane gold versions (I actually ran the FRPP blue rockers against a solid roller cam for 4yrs and counting) or if you can afford it step up to the crowers.
But the simple answer is YES they can and will actually improve performance beyond just the reduction in friction.