Brakes "broke"
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 846
Likes: 2
From: Paris, Arkansas
Brakes "broke"
Sunday, as I was pulling the 5er home, my right rear brake caliper blew out a seal or piston. Happened less than a mile from home thank goodness. At the shop now. Should I replace the entire caliper or have it rebuilt? And YES, I am out of warranty.
Has anyone else had this happen to their F350 or other SD?
Has anyone else had this happen to their F350 or other SD?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
Usually, calipers get the pistons locked in the bore, or the seals get hard and don't retract the pistons correctly (keeping the pads fully contacting the rotor)... they don't usually blow and leak fluid. Did it really leak fluid?
Or did it overheat and THEN spew?
Also, make sure the slide pins are good - they can stick and cause the brake to overheat and cause problems... again and again and again.
Or did it overheat and THEN spew?
Also, make sure the slide pins are good - they can stick and cause the brake to overheat and cause problems... again and again and again.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 846
Likes: 2
From: Paris, Arkansas
Oh yes, it leaked fluid. Brake pedal got very soft so I crawled under and had brake fluid running out of the caliper. New caliper going on today. I do not think it overheated as I was pulling on fairly flat ground with minimal brake usage. After today, new caliper, new pads all around, rotors turned. Should be good to go.
Thanks, everyone.
Thanks, everyone.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,177
Likes: 40
From: Newport, WA
Larry, don't be surprised if your rotor is trashed. I've had rough brakes on my truck since I bought it- turning the front rotors helped a ton so I finally got around to pulling the rears to have them turned also. When I got the driver's side tire off I knew I was in trouble right off- the inside of the rotor was worn about 1/2 the thickness of the outer part. I pulled the caliper and rotor- slide pins are fine. I think what happened is, like Art said, the pistons are hanging in the bore and not releasing the pad. The inside surface of the rotor and inner pad have very weird wear patterns on them. Not to mention, once I got the rotor off I also found hairline cracks in the e-brake drum.
Long story short- be prepared to buy a new rotor, caliper, and pads. From my digging around, I found that powerstrokeshop.com actually has a comparable price for OEM rotors to all the big chain stores- maybe your local dealer will give you their advertised price on the rotor.
Long story short- be prepared to buy a new rotor, caliper, and pads. From my digging around, I found that powerstrokeshop.com actually has a comparable price for OEM rotors to all the big chain stores- maybe your local dealer will give you their advertised price on the rotor.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 846
Likes: 2
From: Paris, Arkansas
My dealer has always done me good. Manager stated that the rotors looked good, just going to turn them all (4) AND new pads, plus the caliper. Should be good to go tomorrow.
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Hotshot
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Tuned
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 290
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From: Greene County,TN.
Larry, how much lining is left on the old rear brake pad? Unless something was broke, I don't see how the piston could physically get out if theres sufficient lining remaining. How many miles on the truck?.......or since the last rear brake job? If not maný, I would have them pay close attention to the caliper pins. If they don't you'll be doing this again one day.
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Paris, Arkansas
The rears were worn out. Should have changed them last oil change. Did not have the $$$. OOPS, now cost more $$$$$$$$$. 102000 mile on the truck. Knew it needed brakes but had to put it off. I know, dumb idea with brakes.