I have used the search function and read some of the other posts on what type of antifreeze. I am still left with a few questions. I just purchased a 2003 Excursion with the 7.3L and the coolant level is alittle low. The color of the antifreeze in the reservoir is red. Is this the correct antifreeze for the 7.3? I don't want to ruin an engine in a vehicle I just bought. The red is deep in color not bright. I just want to make sure it is okay to have this coolant in the engine or if I should remove it immediately.

By the way my local Napa told me they don't sell the paper strips to test the antifreeze. Do all Napas sell the test strips?

Thanks

 

ELC that you can get in wally world is red....thats most likely what you have..let some one else chime in and confirm before you buy it...

 

If it is ELC should it be flushed and replaced with something else?

Thanks

 

Well, i have a 2003 7.3 and my stock colant is yellow. How many miles do you have on the truck? If its over 100,000 it could have been changed to the ELC. I would check that out for sure just to make sure your running the right coolant!!

 

Its got 117,000. How do I check to see whats in there? If I get the test strips and all is okay should I leave it as is?

 

Just add a little distilled water for now or do a coolant flush. I put the ELC in mine and have had no issues. Do you have one of those specific gravity things to check the coolant? Seeing your in Pa you would want to make sure it will be good for the winter.

 

I would do what Jamin said above, check with the antifreeze checker and see where your at, even smell the coolant for burn't smell. If not sure, flush it...

 

Who makes the ELC antifreeze? I check the coolant that is in there. Where can I get distilled water?

 

i got a late 99 and green coolant is in mine.. and i think ive stated it before mines about 2 1/2 inches below the low line i think i may have a crack in the bottle

 

No reason to panic. Unless you have the green coolant, you do not need the test strips. The strips test for supplemental coolant additive (SCA) which needs to be added from time to time (usually around once per year) to prevent cavitation. The gold (or orange or yellow) coolant that was used from the factory (or after market source) had an extended 100k change cycle and did not require the use of SCA, so no test strips were needed. The red is the even newer version, designed for OTR (over the road) trucks with a change interval of 300k miles.

There have been several discussions, by those who know more about this than me, about the use of the red ELC (extended life coolant) in our trucks. Many people here are running it. There are several manufacturer's that make the ELC, so it shouldn't be too hard to find. The word of caution I would pass on is since it was designed for OTR trucks, the 300k lifespan isn't nearly as long in terms of months as it is with our trucks.

Spend some more time doing some research and make up your own mind. It won't hurt anything being in there for a while. You should be able to find distilled water at your local grocery store.

 

Can I test it anyway just to make sure it is okay?
Thanks

 

I don't see why not. You can also get one of the regular testers and check the freeze point to tell you what kind of cold weather protection you have.

 

I've got the red coolant in my truck. Was in it when I bought. Found it at Wally World and have had no problems for 10000 miles.

 

If you want to go back to the factory fill of Motorcraft Premium Gold then you will have to flush it cause they say it is not compatible with others. You do not have to test the "Gold" and I believe 2003 was the first year they started using it and it is approved for use back to 1999. What Chris said is correct. Since your warranty is over you could use one of the ELC's that have the Ford specifications on the container. If you cannot confirm with the previous owner what is in there now I would flush it and start my own history with either of the choices we discussed. Cavitation is an ugly thing if you ever see it.

 

"The cooling system on any diesel has special concerns. It's possible for the coolant to cavitate --produce tiny bubbles--that can with time cause pinholes through the cylinder walls from the water jackets. For this there is an additive; Ford P/N FW-15 or FW-16, Fleetguard P/N DCA4; that needs to be maintained in the coolant. Generally this means installing 8 to 10 oz of the additive to the cooling system every 15000 miles. Another method is to monitor the cooling system with Fleetguard's DCA4 test kit P/N CC2602 or CC2602A. This measures the level of DCA4 in the system, and then you add the amount as required. The cooling system should be drained (and flushed if you live in an area with especially alkaline water) and refilled with a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant/water and one pint of the additive for every two gallons of coolant/water at 30,000 miles. Use only a low-silicate ethylene glycol-based coolant. Ford does not recommend using propylene glycol coolants in any of their vehicles.
· Ford or Motorcraft Premium Antifreeze · Motorcraft Premium Gold Antifreeze (does not require SCA/DCA)
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant
· Texaco Antifreeze/Coolant Pre-diluted 50/50
· Zerex 5/100 (white bottle) Antifreeze/Coolant
· Zerex Ready To Use Antifreeze/Coolant (premixed 50/50 with de-mineralized water)
· Zerex Heavy Duty Pre-charged Formula
· Shellzone Premium Quality Antifreeze
· Fleetguard Complete EG--pre-charged at 1.5 units/gallon DCA4
Also available premixed 50/50 with water with the same DCA4 level · Pyroil Heavy-Duty Antifreeze/Coolant--Low Silicate
· Fleet Charge Antifreeze/Coolant--pre-charged with Pencool

Tips for using Fleetguards Test strips

One of the most common asked questions requarding test strips and how much coolant additive is required to raise the additive to a safe level. This depends on the capacity of the coolant system. Another piece of useful information is that each 1 pint bottle of additive is equal to 5 units.

Fleetguard considers the safe level to be between 1.5 & 2.5 The reason we recommend adding UP TO 2.5 is to help ensure that by the next time you check your coolant it will still be between these levels. Since not everybody maintains their vehicle in the same manner we recommend the HIGH end of the SAFEST LEVEL of 2.5. This has apparently confused some which is why we have added this statement.

For an example on getting your level to the HIGH end of the SAFE LEVEL 2.5

My Friends 99 Ford Powerstroke has a capacity of 32.75 quarts or 8.2 gallons. To figure out how many units 1 pint of additive will raise the coolant level, divide the 5 units by the capacity in gallons (8.2) 5 divided by 8.2 = .61, this tells you that each pint of additive will raise the coolant level .6. If your current level is 1.8 and you wish to reach a level of 2.5 you would need to add 2 pints (2 x .6 = 1.2, 1.2 + 1.8 = 2.5)

To assist you in getting the Ph level close to the nuetral level of 7.0 Ph try adding 16oz of Plain White Vinagur and run for a day or two and then chech your Ph again.
Coolant Filter Installation

Use 5/8" tees. Around $2 each at Napa. they are black plastic. They had plastic Y's but wanted $7 each and only had 1 in stock. There is another post that you can search for that claims that brass tees are available at Lowes (search for Lowes or Quest). I did not feel like driving that far. Also, one guy did a 5/8 by 3/8 x 5/8 tee and made smaller lines to the filter. My Napa bracket came with 5/8 ells so I kept the 5/8 size overall. The Napa bracket is heavy and will need support.

All you PSD owners out there

The answer to your coolant additives is CAT EXTENDED LIFE COOLANT. This is a premixed coolant for all engines with cavitations problems. Just flush out other coolant. Takes approx 5 1/2 gals @ approx $6.00 per gal. All the info is under CATERPILLAR'S WEB SITE www.cat.com Check with any Heavy Equipment or Road Truck dealer, most carry. This coolant is good for 300,000 miles do not add water or additives.
Bypass Coolant Filter W/Eye

Napa parts. Bracket is the 4019, filter is 4071. Used 5/8 black plastic Tee's. The bracket allows for vertical mounting, so I ran a 1"x6"x 1/8 " aluminum angle back from the alternator bolts and mounted the coolant bracket there. It sets just above the front of the valve cover.

Coolant Filter I used a NAPA #4019 filter base kit and NAPA #4071 pre-charged filter for my application. I know there are other bases out there and Baldwin is another good one, but I like Napa’s kit and the position of the inlet and outlet. This made it easier to mount. I also used BRASS T's for my application and a JOHN DEERE "coolant eye" for regular inspection as you can see in the photographs. The coolant eye really makes it nice because you can attach a garden hose with a female end to the eye for regular flushing intervals. It creates a swirl effect that forces debris down to the trap and has a drain **** on it for draining trapped debris that flows through the eye. This is also a feature of the coolant eye. The application was really easy to do and took just a short time to accomplish, but the long term effects of this type of system are a tremendous benefit to a diesel motor.

Here is a list of the parts you see so you can obtain the setup from a store nearest you. 1 - Piece of 2 inch Angle Iron - 1/8 in. thickness, cut to 4 in. long and notched on the alternator side, drilled to bolt specs.. 1 - NAPA #4019 base kit - includes base, 2 - 90's, and 3 - bolts. 1 - NAPA #4071 pre-charged filter OR equivalent. 2-3 ft. of 5/8 heater hose for attachment and in case of a problem. 10 - hose clamps (as shown because of the coolant eye) 2 - Brass T's: 3/8 thread. 6 - Brass Nipples: 3/8 thread to 5/8 hose. 1 - Can of Glossy Black Krylon Spray Paint 1 - John Deere #TY16423 (Coolant Eye)-----OPTIONAL Teflon Tape for threaded fittings. **Everything but the BRASS fittings should be available at your NAPA store. **The BRASS fittings were purchased from a local hardware store. I'm sure you can find them maybe at a LOWE'S or HOME DEPOT. They should be back in the BRASS FITTINGS area of the respected stores. I'm sure someone will have them somewhere if you look hard enough. If you can't find the BRASS fittings, plastic is an option, but I personally wouldn't use it."

THANKS "BAZ"