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I'm thinking that the fuel tank selector valve is the source of my air intrusion. when i broke the return barb that goes to the engine. i pulled the fuel tank selector valve and, discovered it had been glued by the prior owner.
Ja...real old thread... But I second the question...where the hell can we get the E3TB-9F271-AA for less than $524.99???? None of the others on ebay, amazon etc look compatilble...fuel lines are reversed, and mounting points do not match up..For reference...front of truck is to the right in second photo...
Cool beans...still spendy, but better than 5+bills... Am looking at a workaround using a bracket bolted to the original frame holes so I can mount one of the other ones upside down so the fuel lines are properly oriented...that and use the pigtail that comes with the unit...they have bullet connectors...mine is the blade type... Think that'll work? Thx for the link!
you can use the Pollak style valve with a new connector or you can use the Chinese Clone style that has the blade connector.
there are 2 types of Chinese valves on Fleabay one has round connections the other has spade/Blade style connections.... either will work but you need new connector if you get the one with the round connections..
I agree that one I posted is too rich for my blood too, but it was under 5 bills
Think I'll go with the Pollak valve...doesn't say where it's made...China most likely...Thx for the info!!! Been digging around amazon and "fleabay" (LOL) and have not seen that $300 buck model...even put the Ford part number in the search box... Anyway, will post on results for the workaround bracket...
I installed one of the $50 Chicom valves last Aug/Sep when I was going through the fuel system.
Bought it off E-bay, Identical copy of the Ford valve. Bolts right on and fuel lines connect the same.
Also the 5 flat pin plug is the same.
I had the bed off the truck replacing the rear tank to a 38 gallon one, new senders
Shower heads etc....
I will add I have only been running off the rear tank, and have not been switching between
tanks. So I can`t say the valve works perfect since I have not been using it. I keep the front
tank full as a reserve.....just in case.
I installed one of the $50 Chicom valves last Aug/Sep when I was going through the fuel system.
Bought it off E-bay, Identical copy of the Ford valve. Bolts right on and fuel lines connect the same.
Also the 5 flat pin plug is the same.
I had the bed off the truck replacing the rear tank to a 38 gallon one, new senders
Shower heads etc....
I will add I have only been running off the rear tank, and have not been switching between
tanks. So I can`t say the valve works perfect since I have not been using it. I keep the front
tank full as a reserve.....just in case.
Charlie
Got a link to those? Thx!!! Not so sure I need the valve since it has been running like a champ on the front tank...but would be nice to have one JIC...must have been some air trapped between the FSV and the engine...the issue seems to be with the rear tank now...planning on replacing tank, sending unit, all fuel lines when the sending units become available...July I hope...
If you want to go with the larger rear 38 gal tank, the Spectra F26E is the tank most use.
Don`t remember if I got it off Amazon or not. At the time it was around $160.
Here is one site that has the new fuel senders.
There is no sender for a 38 gallon tank. You will have to cut the float rod and extend about 5.5"
and extend the pick up tube. Think I used a compression fitting to connect the tubes. https://www.gastankdepot.com/ford-ga...ing-units.html
Still out of stock on the rear sending units, as well as the front ones, glad I got mine while they were in stock...waiting for an email from the manufacturer MTS company on when they are available again.....will post when I get the email... Was thinking about a 38 gallon unit, decided to stick with a 19 gallon... If I want to go big, I'll just mount a 50 gallon refer tank in the bed,..and use a manual valve to switch between the rear and the bed tank.
Still out of stock on the rear sending units, as well as the front ones, glad I got mine while they were in stock...waiting for an email from the manufacturer MTS company on when they are available again.....will post when I get the email... Was thinking about a 38 gallon unit, decided to stick with a 19 gallon... If I want to go big, I'll just mount a 50 gallon refer tank in the bed,..and use a manual valve to switch between the rear and the bed tank.
I didn`t notice when I posted the link for gas Tank Depot that the senders were out of stock.
seems like there is a lot of them out of stock for various years.
I was going to order a couple more to have on the shelf for my 85, for just in case they were
NLA down the road. Looks like today we are down the road...LOL
Maybe a run on Senders like TP?
At least they still have the Shower Heads for $21 and change.
I put new one`s on, and they will last as long as I own the truck.
If they last 10 yrs or more...How many of you going to still own
one of these IDI`s in 10 yrs?
There is a few places that rebuilds old sender, spedo`s and other gauges. Probably a bit spendy.
Here is one place.
There is a thread where the guy took the sender apart, and moved the PCB over so the contacts
moved on an unused section of the board.I finally found the folder I saved it in. Post #22 in this thread. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...t-options.html
Quote:
On this fuel sender I measured the resistance and it was all over the place. IE not working. So took it apart to see the pcb. I have come up with a way to fix the fuel senders. Could even last about the same amount of time. When taking it apart one side has the tab that you press out to open it. Once open you need to remove the pcb without damaging anything else. Once you have it out, with a dremel with a soft brush you clean the contacts between the black (resister) and the old area of contact that you can see is visibly scratched off from wear. You will see some lines that are just a different color. What you have to do is remove the coating on these lines with a light touch with the dremel(in the electronics industry we call it dielectric). This will give you about 1/16 of an inch of new material that the brush can travel on. Test with an ohm meter, you should be able to get 9 ohms all the way to 84 ohms as you slide the ohm meter probes on the new exposed contact material. If there are dead spots you need to remove a little more of that contact material. So the next task is you have to shift the pcb over about that distance in the holder. And there is enough room to do it. I shifted it over and had to remove a little material from two of the retainers with a soldering iron to take some of the pressure off pushing it to the old position. Then from the bottom heat staked the two corners to lock the pcb into the new position with the soldering iron. and test again once assembled.
I went those cheap pollack valves too. It lasted for a few years, probably around 100k or close to it and I did need to replace it with another a couple years ago but, they're cheap enough. If you don't need or want both tanks anymore, you can just bypass it too of course and run off one tank and that's free.
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