I put a set of electric temp gauge in last night and they aren't working right. The needle stops when it gets to 100. I wired it up the way the instructions said but it never said anything about the terminal marked "0". Maybe "O". This is how it's wired. "G" to ground, "I" to ignition, and "S" to the sender. I didn't put any thread tape or pipe dope on the threads. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

 

Bump

 

either it's working right and your engine doesn't get over 100 or you need to contact the manufacturer of your guage. dick r.

 

HI,

Just a couple questions: Is this on your Bonus Built Truck? Are you running 12 Volt now or the original 6 Volt? What engine do you have in it? I'm assuming the gauge is an aftermarket type - yes?

Do you have a thermostat in the engine and if so what temp rating is it? Does the sending unit mount in the intake manifold, and if so is the manifold aluminum or cast iron? Have you started the truck a number of times to let it warm up - and open the thermostat - and topped off the coolant (in other words is the coolant topped off properly - no air in the system)?

 

All good things to check. What brand is the gauge? I have seen a lot of off-brand or cheaper models that do not work right.

I do not like electric gauges (except volt of course). I prefer the mechanical one and a name brand at that.

I installed a set of autometer gauges in mine. It is 12V. They work great.

LINK: http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...c/DSCF0625.jpg

 

Great point as well. Both my oil pressure and temp are Stewart Werner mechanical gauges that I surgically installed in the original gauge bodies and cluster on my 51 after gluing the original faces on. You can't tell the difference from the original gauges. I tested the temp gauge with hot water and thremometer before installing it and it is right on. Oil was within 5psi.

J!

 

The truck is a 52 F3 with a 239 flathead. It has the original cylinder heads on it and I did change it over to a 12 volt system. I bought the gauges from mooneyes. I replaced the coolant and ran it a few times to get the air out of the system. I ran it yesterday afternoon and got 150 on the gauges but I get 170 normally(with mech gauge). I haven't ever changed/checked the thermostates on it.

 

Hi New!

Ok well it sounds like they are working ok. I would imagine that you are probably running 140 or 160 degree thermostats. 20 degrees is probably the difference in instrumentation error, new clean temp sensors, or the result of the new coolant. IOW I wouldn't think that 20 degrees is a problem.

Remember, you really aren't looking for a specific temp on these things, but rather that they are working and will indicate when a cooling problem or failure is occuring. You will adjust to what this gauge reads and what is the "normal temperature operating range" for your specific engine. In that light, the stock gauges in my 51 don't even have numbers on them. So you are just looking for "normalcy."

In other words if you are driving around and 150 degrees (maybe up to 180 on warm days in traffic) and the thing starts to climb and passes 190 or 200 degrees it migh be time to pull over and check it out.

J!

 

Julie - how'd that work out? Can you tell the difference? Which SW gauges did you use - I mean, they'd have to have a relatively short "throw" of the dial, correct?

Thnx,

R

 

It worked out fantastic! I am very happy with the conversion and I know the gauges are correct, reliable, and functional.

Here's a picture of my cluster AFTER I installed the converted gauges:



Ok! So, the "Battery" gauge doesn't matter because it has the induction loop in the back and will sense flow on any wire running through it 6, 12, or even 28 Volt. The gas gauge was stock with a stock sender that I slipped the little resistor (that everyone sells to convert gauges to 12 volt) and then calibrated the sender to the right position...Here's a test: how many of you remember my post on calibration of the gas gauge using the cardboard box?

For the other two gauges - oil pressure and temp - you just have to do a little planning. You need a temperature gauge that has the needle base coming out of the BOTTOM of the face (as opposed to the center) and rises (increases) to the right. BUT, on the oil pressure you have to be sure to pick a gauge that has the needle base on the TOP and rises to the right. Also, I bought gauges that had the normal operating temp and pressure value my truck ran at in the center of the new gauge scale. So when I installed it the needles should be in the center if all is operating normally. I also bought gauges with the smallest numerical spread between minimum and maximum values (more needle movement per pound/degree of change) These are standard 1 3/4 inch gauges.

You take the chrome ring and glass off and the guts come right out of the case. You take the stock gauge case (that you have pryed the face off of and stripped the electrical part inside - saving the needle for later) and cut the back of the case to fit the way the guts from the SW gauges exit the case. Epoxy or bolt them in as appropriate. Both of the new gauge cables/tubes have threaded fittings on the back that allow you to tighten the nut to the stock case (by co incidence). Carefully slide the stock face over it, re bend the indents on the face into the case to hold the face, and glue the stock needle on top of the new needle. Repaint the stock needle with red or orange on all the gauges so they match. Simple right?

When you install them and start the truck up for the time, you should know what temp and pressure it was running at, so you note the position on the new gauge and then know what's normal - should be close to the center of the new assembly if your planning was right.

To test and calibrate the temp gauge, put the sensor end in a pan with cool tap water. Place a thermometer in the water. Heat about two cups of water in a pyrex measuring cup in the microwave. VERY slowly start pouring the hot water into the pan with the cold. When the needle on the gauge starts to move off the pin, note the temperature on the thermometer. Then, watching the thermometer, again slowly add more hot water until the thermometer reads at the temp that your thermostat is supposed to be. Stop pouring in the hot water and note the position of the needle on the gauge. This should what your gauge should read when you are driving 35 MPH or better - normal operating temperature. Add enough hot water to raise the temp on the thermometer ten degrees and note how far the needle on the gauge moved - do this two or three times to get a feel how much the gauge will be moving as the engine heats up. Lastly, slowly pour in hot water until the gauge hits it's high mark and note the temperature on the thermometer. If you start to overheat, you will know the last reliable temp you will get on the gauge. Keep these needle positions in your mind and you will know how to read your gauge while driving.

J!

*edit note* I have another outer cluster bezel in the chrome shop - should look like new when done!

 

So, how do you get the chrome ring off the typical gauge, without prying it and ruining it??? They appear to be rolled-in-place.

 

Seems mine came off easily, when I replaced my oil gauge, without any damage or pain - I'll take a look at it in the morning, and figure out what I did...I have two sets, so got to play with one of them.

*edit* - or did you mean by "typical" gauge, the replacement? Most of those I've seen would be hard, but you wouldn't be using them anyway...

R

 

Pry it and ruin it if need be...

Remember, the new gauge that you bought, you are just using the internal mechanism of. So if it's necessary (and they do come off fairly easily) you can ruin the chrome ring or bust the glass- it's trash at that point. All the gauges you will build out of those works go into your original cluster behind a single piece of glass and don't have the chrome rings - ,,,,,right?


J!

 

Nice job!

 

Thanks to Julie for the EXCELLENT documentation on her gauge conversion. I'm trying to decide whether to go that way or keep the stock gauges and use voltage reducers and all electrical sending units. Right now I'm leaning toward the latter.

I saw on another thread where someone used the factory temp and pressure sending units (with extra fittings to adapt them to their later model engine) and voltage reducers at each gauge. Has anyone else done that, and are there any issues with it?

Thanks
-DV