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A/C controls

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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 07:41 PM
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cornfedp
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From: DeWitt Ne.
A/C controls

Ok, 77 F150 4x4, my A/C is set up kind of odd. The controls are under the middle two vents on the dash. On the normal heater controls it just has the vent, heater, defrost. Anyone familiar with this setup?

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...um%202/019.jpg
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:26 PM
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That is called dealer add on A/C.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 10:01 PM
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cornfedp
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From: DeWitt Ne.
Thanks Ranger, that makes sense. So since there is no selection for vent on the heater controls. Any tips or tricks on what to look for to troubleshoot would be appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cornfedp
Thanks Ranger, that makes sense. So since there is no selection for vent on the heater controls. Any tips or tricks on what to look for to troubleshoot would be appreciated.
We would need more to go on. What is the unit doing...or not doing?

eg: Turn it on, blower motor works like it should---but no cold air?
eg: Turn it on, nothing happens at all?
eg: Turn it on, and you hear just the clicking from under the hood, blower 'on' but no cold?

A/C can be a challenge, but it's a simple system once you get used to working with it.

Just wondering...has it been converted to the R134a? Or still on the old R12?

S-
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 05:45 AM
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Just going off of what the PO told me I would have to say it is still the old R12. He told me it worked up until it ran out of freon. Right now, I turn it on and hear a click under the hood, but no blower. Also when the blower for heater will only work on high.
 
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Old Aug 25, 2008 | 07:35 AM
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Blower only working on "high" normally points towards a burnt resister pack (that is what controls the blower speed. On "high" it's pretty much a straight shot through for current, they use resistors (wire wound type normally) to drop the current flow to adjust the motor speed)

R12 is getting extremely hard to find these days. Probably time for the dreaded 134a conversion. I'd vacuum out the system using the correct pump to remove any water vapor stuck in the system, If this system is way old? Might be time to replace the receiver/dryer unit as well. Once done the system can be fully charged and then checked for leakage. Sounds like a pain in the rear end, but that's pretty much how it's done. Need a solid charge in the system to check for leaks.

Hang loose for a while and see if anyone else has ideas. I've not done the r134a conversion, so there are probably details I'm forgetting.

S-
 
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