Electrical Fault Somewhere
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Oak Harbor Washington
Electrical Fault Somewhere
Hey guys. I am stumped. I thought I had my starting problems figured out at the battery and would need a new one. Got it tested at Schucks and lo and behold, the battery is fine. So I figured it must be the coil. I have just bought a newish MSD Blaster 2 for 20 bucks, connected that and...no juice. The radio came on when I turned the key good and strong, but when I tried to start it, click, thunk and nothing, no radio nothing, now when I turn the key I get even less with no click at all. So I jiggled some of the randomly tossed in wires (some are connected to different item, some ar not, looks like a rat tried to make a nest but failed miserably) and got the radio back on briefly, now I am back to simply nothing. I am thinking Battery cables, but I am hoping it isn't a starter problem. I am looking at re running all of the wiring through a fuse panel of some type in the future, in the mean time, any suggestions as to how I am going to get my baby running again?
The engine is out of a 77 F150. 351M.
Thanks Guys
Ryan
The engine is out of a 77 F150. 351M.
Thanks Guys
Ryan
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Davenport, IA
If your radio quits when you hit the key, you probably have a bad connection somewhere between the battery and solenoid. Try cleaning up your battery terminals and posts, where the wires connect to the cable clamps and check the connections at the solenoid. Also check the ground connection on the firewall.
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From: Oak Harbor Washington
I've been trying to trace the grounds, but like I said, it looks like a previous owner just threw a bunch of scrap wires at the engine. Man what a mess!!! I am going to try replacing my battery leads and see if that works, if not. I'll start at the starter relay and work my way out testing and replacing wires, while cleaning up my engine compartment!!!! Now to find a wiring diagram for it!!!
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From: Davenport, IA
Your negative battery cable should go directly from the battery to the firewall. I've got a 87 junk DD that does the same thing every once in a while - hit the key and all power is gone. I have to clean up all the terminal connections between the battery and solenoid, re-clamp and good to go for another 2 months.
Could be a lost connection to the ignition switch too. I think if you jump the solenoid and it cranks, its somewhere between the solenoid and the ignition, if it doesn't, it's between the battery and solenoid. Bad battery ground would cause total loss too.
Could be a lost connection to the ignition switch too. I think if you jump the solenoid and it cranks, its somewhere between the solenoid and the ignition, if it doesn't, it's between the battery and solenoid. Bad battery ground would cause total loss too.
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From: Oak Harbor Washington
Well it was the Negative off the battery. I replaced both Negative and Positive ( I have a black and a red now vice two blacks) but the iginition has to be rewired. It is too much of a rats nest to be saved. For example I emoved the loom and I have a yellow 14 guage going into a blue 18 guage going into a red 10 guage finishing with a black 8 guage. That is a power wire I think...but not too sure. I have a lot of work to do.
I copied this into a reply to the 335 forum
I copied this into a reply to the 335 forum
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Huh? The negative battery cable was originally grounded to one of the bolts that hold the exhaust manifold on. I've never seen any Ford truck (or car), regardless of the year, with the negative battery cable grounded to the firewall.
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Posting Guru
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From: Davenport, IA
Good catch Bill!! Meant to say manifold, came out firewall?! Won't get the best spark if its grounded to the firewall.
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From: Davenport, IA
Addendum: I thought about it for a while, I thought these trucks were grounded to the firewall then to the motor at the back. I've always ran a ground directly to the motor and the firewall on anything I've reworked... and one directly to the stereo.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
As original, the negative battery cable was grounded to the first (front) bolt that held the exhaust manifold on.
Originally Posted by bensdaddy
...for a Fat guy like myself!!!
At your age (26) you should be more agile, regardless of what you weigh.
Try working on one of these old rolling piles of misery when you are disabled, over 60, weigh 335 lbs, stand 6-5 and have arthritis in your hands, knees and back.
Not fun.
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From: Oak Harbor Washington
This is what I get for not taking care of myself when I should have. I may be late to the party, but I'm here now and making the best of it.
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From: Massachusetts
To make things clear for everyone following...on my '65 f-350 with 352 my battery was grounded directly to the engine block on the forward most intake manifold bolt (at least that's where it was when i got the truck, the wiring on my rig sounds exactly like the mess BensDaddy has). On the back of the engine on one of the rear intake manifold bolts is the ground from the engine to the firewall, mine is not a ground strap, but instead a short length of battery cable.
Just clarifying the locations for anyone new to their truck
Just clarifying the locations for anyone new to their truck