When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys,
great thread. It really helped having the list of parts. I just took on the task last week. Got you beat on the broken bolts. 5 per side. What a pain, but making progress. I have the driver side mounted. Passenger log is off. Got one bolt out today, the rest tomorrow. Thanks again for sharing your experience with this mod.
I wish other people would fix there manifold studs. Seems like everywhere I go lately I'm always hearing a 5.4l and a few 6.8ls tick, tick, ticking away from broken studs. It bugs me, seems many don't know or don't care.
Many people don't have the knowledge, nor do they seem to want it, much less actually have to buy the tools, get sweaty, and get their finger nails dirty. If its broke, throw it away and buy a new one. Thats a lot easier for those with the bread.
I bought my truck used. There were three studs broke off on the D/side of my v10 (one exhaust port was leaking). I took it back and made the dealer fix it. Thats what im affraid of, if I try to put headers on my v10. More broken studs.
I bought my truck used. There were three studs broke off on the D/side of my v10 (one exhaust port was leaking). I took it back and made the dealer fix it. Thats what im affraid of, if I try to put headers on my v10. More broken studs.
Time will not make it any better, just more broken studs. My truck had a little over 20k miles on it when I switched to headers. One stud was broken, it just didn't fall off.
Actually, that cement mixer sound, I don't know why I said I get it in both sides - I get it mostly on the passenger side, it's obvious when passing a wall on the passenger side, but nothing from the driver's side.
The more I think about it, it did it BEFORE the headers. I wonder if it's just exhaust noise out the tailpipe? Gotta really get into it more ...
My Excursion makes a sand blaster sound around 1900 RPM with a fully stock exhaust. Goes away above and below. There may be a leak, I don't know. But I am installing the headers now.
I bought my truck used. There were three studs broke off on the D/side of my v10 (one exhaust port was leaking). I took it back and made the dealer fix it. Thats what im affraid of, if I try to put headers on my v10. More broken studs.
They are going to break one way or another. The factory Ford studs are junk and are going to break. I just posted a thread on my header installation so far, have a look at that if you want some additional info.
If you aren't comfortable with it, find a friend who is to give you a hand or else a shop that's willing to do it. At least, if you want to do the headers, it may be a little difficult to find someone willing to do it due to the required notch in the frame. Alternately, you can just drive the thing and let the dealer replace the studs when they break. Your choice, really, I just chose the header route because I figured I'd have some fun and I do just about all my own work.
VICTORY is (almost) mine! All busted bolts out, no wrecked threads. However, I'm almost broken. I hurt where I've never hurt before. Things look good for getting this buttoned up tomorrow.
I see what you mean about the brake line being too close to the header. What did you end up doing? I was going to get some new line and bend a new one through the frame in front of the header.
Thanks for all the info in these threads. It makes the job quite a bit easier.
maybe its different on your truck, but on my Ex, the brake line for the pass. side runs in front , up, then atop the frame to get to that wheel, and with the added width of the headers vs the stock logs, it seems a bit close to that line. I don't want to boil the brake fluid from the heat.
I haven't put that line back in place yet, but I don't think there will be any problems there that I'd be worried about. I'll have a look again tomorrow. I just took off the bracket that held it in place to give me better access for getting the header in on that side.
WooHoo! Headers are on! Sound great open, and no leaks. Just need to attach the Y pipe.
Yea, I'd say brake line is way too close for comfort for me. I think I'm gonna re-route it in front of the shock mount, then cut the L bend shorter so it sits in front at least a few inches away from the header pipe.
Did/do you guys feel safe running sans the inner wheel well? I want to do the same thing. Run to work and back a few times (120 round trip) and check the bolts after each run.
I wouldn't worry about the brake line, especially while driving where there's enough air to keep everything cool... but that's my personal comfort level. If you want to change it, by all means.
I'm planning on running without the inner wheel well until everything settles. Check everything and zip strap back as required to make sure that things don't hit the wheel. In my case, there were two wires I zipped back and then also the I think vacuum reservoir that sits on top of the passenger side fender well. Looking at your truck for a bit should show you want you need to do.
I would keep this as a temporary thing and try not to drive in the rain or mud like this (after all, that's what those things are there to protect against), but that's just me.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.