Are you talikng of "painless" or "ezwire"? I have seen these, and Will probably get one of these or pull one out of a car at the junk yard, What do you think is a better solution?
Thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it.

 

If you feel you are capable of fabricating a wiring harness yourself, by all means get a junkyard fuse box. If you think you might be getting in over your head, I would buy an aftermarket harness like painless, wireworks etc. There are lots of issues that need your attention either way you go.
Gas guage?-needs to be 12volt or 12-6 conversion if using original.
Wiper motor-same as gas guage
steering column? original? I think if you use a modern column, some of these wiring companys can accommedate your factory plug.

I did something that worked pretty neat. Somebody had retrofitted turnsignals to my truck. They had seperate mounted light housings in back and on top of the front fenders(ugly!) with an aftermarket turn signal switch clamped to the steering column. I converted the original front parking lights to dual filament bulbs easy enough, and put new modern lamps in the back, but I had to figure out how to integrate the seperate turn signal switch into the brake lights. I got the idea to get one of those trailer conversion boxes that you use to convert a foreign car with seperate lights (amber turn) to tow a conventional trailer with single dual filament bulbs. This works pretty good, I just mounted the little box under the dash and hooked the signals from the brake switch and the turn signal switch into this box. It makes the brakes lights both come on and also will make the correct one blink too.

 

Gas guage might work, it is low on gas. Windshield wipers work.
Column is different, I believe, and there is what I think is an after market turn indicator switch. When I turn the indicator lights on, I see the light blinking in the cab, but no outer lights work. We are getting into the nitty-gritty now. Whew! I love a challenge!

 

I just wanted to give a huge thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I ran across it while trying to find info on properly wiring my voltage regulator for my 69 Mustang. I was on the verge of a breakdown. Finding this info (and a working solution) was a life-saver!! The people on this list are so patient and knowledgeable, it makes me want to run out and buy a truck. Thanks again- it was so much help!! -rr

 

Rick,
That was quite a caper; glad it helped you out. Don't know if you use the VMF page. It is a great source for vintage Mustang info. If not, check it out at:

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/forums/postlist.pl?Cat=1&Board=forum

Ed

 

 

I have a 79 Lincoln Continental with a 400 v8. my alt light came on the other day. I took the alt out and autozone tested it and it was good. I bought a new voltage regulator and installed it... i started the car with the vr installed but not bolted in and the alt light was not on anymore but the car stayed at the same voltage when on or off. so i bolted the vr in and the alt light came back on...i took the vr out and just sat it out while connected and the alt light stayed off but the battery stil does not charge. the alt has a pos and neg connection as well as two smaller connectors. all 4 wires go into a tube of wiring which opens near the starter sol. the old vr is FOPU-10316-AA. the vr has I A S F connectors. also there was a yellow wire that looks like a ground with a big metal tube in the wire just before the circle that bolts to the body. this was connected to one of the IASF connectors and i am not sure if it was grounded to begin with. i have a feeling its not needed. when i opened the hood i saw that the wire that connects the body to the ground was fried. i run 400 RMS from my amp and this wire was not installed by me and was too small (10 ga). I now have 4 ga connecting body and engine to ground. all connectors are new to the battery. all other simlar wiring is 6 ga or larger and replaced by the previous owner. i need to get this alt charging before winter... help!

 

With the engine off, take a voltmeter and check the large "bat" terminal for voltage. You should have battery voltage there. If not, there is a fusible link burned out in that wire.

 

what do u mean by large "bat" terminal? i have voltage when the car is off at the battery terminals

 

Sorry, I should have said the "bat" terminal on the alternator, the one with the lug and the nut.

 

im going down to check that right now...ill post when im back

 

i check it and im getting 12v between pos on alt and ground..

 

The alternator light is off right now correct? What voltage do you get on the battery with the engine running, and most accessories off? Make sure all the wires are connected and the voltage regulator is bolted down good(good ground to the reg case).

 

i get about 12.5 volts weather in engine is on or off. right now the vr in not bolted to the frame and the alt light if off. but if i bolt it the alt light comes on and the voltage stays the same weather the engine is on or off. which is still at 12.5

 

there is also that ground wire that i talked about in my first post... i think the prob is on the wires that connect to the IASF connectors... can u help me tell me what those do and where they go?