sparkplug time
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From: Newport News, VA
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
There was a decent thread down in the mod motor folder in this forum. Just because someone else will say to only use autolite/motorcraft, my denso IRs are still performing very well at 12k miles.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
Don't forget to fill the cop boot with dielectric grease. However that's the simple procedure. It's been better than a year for me, but I did all 8 in under 2 hours. Pull the intake off, and anything else you can get out of your way. Have a bunch of extensions handy and wobles. A wobble spark plug socket is worth it's weight in gold. Do them one at a time, unclip the coil, unbolt the coil, remove plug, apply a conducting anti-seaze to the new plug and install is the reverse. Move on to the next one. When I got the rear on the pass side I had to unclip the injector harness, remember to plug it back in, diagnosing this without a scanner would be a pain.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: muskegon mi.
Don't forget to fill the cop boot with dielectric grease. However that's the simple procedure. It's been better than a year for me, but I did all 8 in under 2 hours. Pull the intake off, and anything else you can get out of your way. Have a bunch of extensions handy and wobles. A wobble spark plug socket is worth it's weight in gold. Do them one at a time, unclip the coil, unbolt the coil, remove plug, apply a conducting anti-seaze to the new plug and install is the reverse. Move on to the next one. When I got the rear on the pass side I had to unclip the injector harness, remember to plug it back in, diagnosing this without a scanner would be a pain.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 361
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From: Eagle River, Alaska
?On the boot fill thing, NO. Just a liberal amount all around the boot end(inside) that goes over the plug. Ive found it beneficial to apply a thin smear around the top of the porcelain on the plug as well since the boot tends to have all its grease pushed upward as the plug seats in the boot.
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Tuned
Joined: May 2008
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Take to the local ford dealer. Have them the drop u off at a nice neighborhood bar. Have several martinis and or several beers. Have several more drinks. About 1 to 4 am depending in which state u reside in call cab are have barmaid take u to her or your home. About 10 am have wife or girl friend or barmaid take u back to your local ford dealer and your truck will have new plugs plus tire rotation, oil change or anything else u needed and told them to do. That is the only way to change plugs and who has one of them feeler gauges anymore anyway
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
I did fill mine and let it squish out to fill the hole. I had it in an aerosol can, so it was easy to go beyond liberal. I am sure I have no moisture getting to my new coils/boots/plugs.
If a little is good, a lot is great.
Feeler gauge? I check mine with a caliper, much faster and I know where my calipers are and they are rust free.
If a little is good, a lot is great.
Feeler gauge? I check mine with a caliper, much faster and I know where my calipers are and they are rust free.
Last edited by ReAX; Aug 15, 2008 at 08:40 PM. Reason: we don't need no stinkin' feeler gauges.
Tuned
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 474
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I did fill mine and let it squish out to fill the hole. I had it in an aerosol can, so it was easy to go beyond liberal. I am sure I have no moisture getting to my new coils/boots/plugs.
If a little is good, a lot is great.
Feeler gauge? I check mine with a caliper, much faster and I know where my calipers are and they are rust free.
If a little is good, a lot is great.
Feeler gauge? I check mine with a caliper, much faster and I know where my calipers are and they are rust free.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
Dialectric grease around the tip of the boot, AND around the top of the boot where it seals to the COP, AND around the boot where it seals to the head.
Anti-seize on the plug threads, if it's a 2-valve, 14ft/lbs of torque on the plug.
ALWAYS use an inspection mirror and check the threads in the hole, and make sure there's no aluminum stuck to the plug threads when you pull the old ones.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: muskegon mi.
thanks for all the help what a great web site job went easy 2hrs. my nephew turnd me onto a sparkplug socket that works great its a cornwell 5/8 8" long and fits the hole just right and has captive rubber in side to hold the plug and nurlled on top for hand twist the part number isT-2220-spxla needed no extensions and no wobbels and no u-joints just a flex/head ratchet and that socket agin THANK YOU ALL !!!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,241
Likes: 1
From: Here and there
Come on, it's a lot more involved than that.
Dialectric grease around the tip of the boot, AND around the top of the boot where it seals to the COP, AND around the boot where it seals to the head.
Anti-seize on the plug threads, if it's a 2-valve, 14ft/lbs of torque on the plug.
ALWAYS use an inspection mirror and check the threads in the hole, and make sure there's no aluminum stuck to the plug threads when you pull the old ones.
Dialectric grease around the tip of the boot, AND around the top of the boot where it seals to the COP, AND around the boot where it seals to the head.
Anti-seize on the plug threads, if it's a 2-valve, 14ft/lbs of torque on the plug.
ALWAYS use an inspection mirror and check the threads in the hole, and make sure there's no aluminum stuck to the plug threads when you pull the old ones.
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Posting Guru
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From: muskegon mi.
I was going for the ease of it, not technical crap. I had a feeling he thought it was a long detailed project when in reality it IS that simple. Just add the grease and so forth. Sorry if I did not get technical for you there Ken. I was just giving you the basic idea of how to change them.