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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 06:55 PM
  #1  
johnnydmetal's Avatar
johnnydmetal
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From: Mine Hill NJ
Rod Bearings

I am finally assembling my stroked 360 after 5 years of not having the time.
The pistons and crank are 390 and the Rods are from a 428.
Pulling the parts together from various boxes in my closets and cabinets I found I have two different sized rod bearing sets. Since this is not all brand new parts and my machinist moved to California 2 years ago I wasn’t sure which bearings to use.
The Bearings measure .010 and .020. The crank Diameter is 2.430.The Rod has two measurements: 2.585 at the split from bolt to bolt and 2.549 following the rod length.
See Drawing



So which bearing should I use the .010 and .020. ?
Thanks
John
 

Last edited by johnnydmetal; Aug 14, 2008 at 06:56 PM. Reason: image link not working
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 08:21 PM
  #2  
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t lindemann
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the measurments on your rods dont make sense. it should be the same measurements measured in any direction. are the rods used if so they may need resized.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2008 | 08:58 PM
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Bear 45/70
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From: Union, Washington
You need to get your rods reworked, they should be round, not oblong.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 06:36 PM
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johnnydmetal
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Ok,
My mistake with the vernier calipers and not tightening the retainers on the rod.
The correct measurement is 2.585 up and horizontal I don't know how I got the 2.549 so well just shoot me...

So with the correct measres being 2.585 on the rod and the 2430 on the crank what bearings do I use?

Thanks
John
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #5  
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t lindemann
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the .020 bearings would be the correct ones which would give you around 2.5 thousands each side. which is a little on the tight side but if you take some 000 steel wool and give the inside surface of each bearing a good steady wipe to each one you can get it to around 3 thousands. which would be good.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 10:44 PM
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Redmanbob
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From: Mddl A MexCans
If the parts are used I'd strongly suggest having a machinist review them. The rods should tidy up in no time to the bearing requirements provided the crank doesn't need a turning. You need to check all the journals and rods if you have not done so already. The small ends should be checked as well as the rods being straight (not bent or twisted) and finally balanced to one another for best results. Not a terribly expensive job for the machinist to do for you if needed and the checkup is worth it's weight in gold. The top end can go pop and you might have a chance in hell it's still salvageable. Bottom end goes kaputt and it's taking some **** with!!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 06:34 AM
  #7  
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johnnydmetal
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From: Mine Hill NJ
These were all machined and balanced 3 years ago. they have just been sitting on a shelf in my shop till now. I even had the used rods shot peened to restrengthen them.
before I decided to stroke out the engine I was just going to overhaul my 360 but My friend had a 90 crank and I picked up a new set of pistons for 50 bucks. the rods were puchased at a swap meet all matching #'s. So I brought the whole deal to my machinist and after a fresh grind and polish of the crank the whole set was sent out for the rework and balance. Everything is clean and rust free as I have a dehumidifier and heat in my shop.
I measured incorrectly using a vernier caliper instead of a micrometer and thats where the bogus number came from. when I went and rechecked I pulled out my mic set and was a bit more matculus.
Thanks
 
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