IDM Code P1316
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
It may not help him, but I'll be da**** if one of my 02's didn't have the same thing just happen to it. We just pulled the valve cover to find the UVCH clip good. Buzz test showed the #4 injector sounded weak. Cylinder contribution shows the drivers bank shut down. Ohm test showed the #4 injector weaker than the rest.
Strange how this stuff seems to happen in groups. Time to go shopping.
Strange how this stuff seems to happen in groups. Time to go shopping.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
Well it certainly helped "floridakeysf250" last Feb. Reps to you for the post.
I certainly saved this info.
Thanks Rick.
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I certainly saved this info.
Thanks Rick.
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
I have an 01' 7.3 with the dreaded P1316 code. I took all the crap out of the way today and measured the injector ohms on both banks. (What a pain!)
One bank was all 3.3 ohms and the other was all 3.3 or 3.2 ohms.
Tomorrow I will put it all back together and see if removing the connectors was enough to fix it. If not I am going to pull out the Superchip and see what happens.
If this does not work, what should I try next? I haven't seen an IDM and wouldn't know it if I saw it or what to do with it??
Any suggestions?
One bank was all 3.3 ohms and the other was all 3.3 or 3.2 ohms.
Tomorrow I will put it all back together and see if removing the connectors was enough to fix it. If not I am going to pull out the Superchip and see what happens.
If this does not work, what should I try next? I haven't seen an IDM and wouldn't know it if I saw it or what to do with it??
Any suggestions?
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Listen to the guys in this forum, they'll get ya going.
For me, when my rig developed the P1316 prob, these UVC clips solved my problem.
FDDTS - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips
Stewart
For me, when my rig developed the P1316 prob, these UVC clips solved my problem.
FDDTS - 7.3L UVC Harness Retainer Clips
Stewart
New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
It's better to be lucky than good!
After checking the injector resistance and proving the UVC harness and injectors were good, I cleaned the outside valve cover connectors and WD-40'd the pins, it just fired up and ran perfect!!
I can't make it fail by wiggling the wires so I don't suspect a bad wire. Probably just high resistance contact on a connector pin caused it.
Thanks for all the help guys!
After checking the injector resistance and proving the UVC harness and injectors were good, I cleaned the outside valve cover connectors and WD-40'd the pins, it just fired up and ran perfect!!
I can't make it fail by wiggling the wires so I don't suspect a bad wire. Probably just high resistance contact on a connector pin caused it.
Thanks for all the help guys!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
Likes: 14
From: Payson, AZ
It's better to be lucky than good!
After checking the injector resistance and proving the UVC harness and injectors were good, I cleaned the outside valve cover connectors and WD-40'd the pins, it just fired up and ran perfect!!
I can't make it fail by wiggling the wires so I don't suspect a bad wire. Probably just high resistance contact on a connector pin caused it.
Thanks for all the help guys!
After checking the injector resistance and proving the UVC harness and injectors were good, I cleaned the outside valve cover connectors and WD-40'd the pins, it just fired up and ran perfect!!
I can't make it fail by wiggling the wires so I don't suspect a bad wire. Probably just high resistance contact on a connector pin caused it.
Thanks for all the help guys!
We try to encourage this but far too often we do not hear back about a fix. 
Welcome to 
and reps to you.
New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
This just in! I'm not as lucky as I thought.
The friggin P1316 code came back and it won't run right again.
I can change the idle smoothness by moving the main wiring loom but can't pinpoint where it originates.
I think this could turn into a real mess trying to find one shorted or open wire in a loom that size. I guess I need to get on ebay and find a service manual to start tracing wires.
The friggin P1316 code came back and it won't run right again.
I can change the idle smoothness by moving the main wiring loom but can't pinpoint where it originates.
I think this could turn into a real mess trying to find one shorted or open wire in a loom that size. I guess I need to get on ebay and find a service manual to start tracing wires.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,578
Likes: 1
When I first started chasing my problems with my truck someone had mentioned the wiring harness can get rubbed and begin to chafe... I believe it was down by the steering shaft on the drivers side... I will dig through my old posts and try and find that info for ya...
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New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Thanks 4inch.
I was thinking I might start at the connector at the valve cover and start stripping off the tape and loom material and look for obvious melted, fried or frayed wires all the way to wherever the wires go. If I find something, just repair and re-loom it.
I was thinking I might start at the connector at the valve cover and start stripping off the tape and loom material and look for obvious melted, fried or frayed wires all the way to wherever the wires go. If I find something, just repair and re-loom it.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,578
Likes: 1
So i looked through my old posts and can't find the excact quote... Sorry. How ever i am sure thats what the person had said. Start at the VC, and work your way down... Make sure you know which wires you are looking at, there are a lot of them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook Alabama
Thanks 4inch.
I was thinking I might start at the connector at the valve cover and start stripping off the tape and loom material and look for obvious melted, fried or frayed wires all the way to wherever the wires go. If I find something, just repair and re-loom it.
I was thinking I might start at the connector at the valve cover and start stripping off the tape and loom material and look for obvious melted, fried or frayed wires all the way to wherever the wires go. If I find something, just repair and re-loom it.
New User
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
OK This time I found it.
I started at the driver side, moving the loom around and making the idle change. Then cut off all the looming and tape until all the wires were exposed. Nothing there. Still moving the loom and isolating sections I discovered that the problem was somewhere ont the passenger side.
After stripping back the loom starting at the V/C I found two wires with a 1/4" section with no insulation. It had warn thru the loom and shorted intermittantly. Cleaned and taped up the bare sections, installed new plastic looming and put all the crap back on and it is working perfect.
Thanks again and I still feel lucky I didn't have to go inside the V/C
I started at the driver side, moving the loom around and making the idle change. Then cut off all the looming and tape until all the wires were exposed. Nothing there. Still moving the loom and isolating sections I discovered that the problem was somewhere ont the passenger side.
After stripping back the loom starting at the V/C I found two wires with a 1/4" section with no insulation. It had warn thru the loom and shorted intermittantly. Cleaned and taped up the bare sections, installed new plastic looming and put all the crap back on and it is working perfect.
Thanks again and I still feel lucky I didn't have to go inside the V/C