IP Houshing switchout.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Calgary
IP Houshing switchout.
I have a Non-Tach 1985 F-250. I Was at the Junk Yard on Saturday and picked a Gear housing (1" tach sensor incl.) With the injector pump attached to the gear housing they charged me $8.75 for the whole thing. BTW, it was off a 89' F-350.
Now, I want my tach to work! I understand that I need to switch out my gear housing with no tach sensor for the one I got from pick your part. Then Install the IP on the new gear housing. My guess is that there is no way to do what im wanting to do without completely screwing up my timing. Any advice?
Im expecting to have to do this close to a diesel tune-up shop.
Thanks,
Billy
Now, I want my tach to work! I understand that I need to switch out my gear housing with no tach sensor for the one I got from pick your part. Then Install the IP on the new gear housing. My guess is that there is no way to do what im wanting to do without completely screwing up my timing. Any advice?
Im expecting to have to do this close to a diesel tune-up shop.
Thanks,
Billy
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Actually it is not that hard to do.
First loosen all the injection lines from the injectors.
Loosen the fuel supply line coming from the fuel filter.
Remove the IP return line from the IP.
Unplug all the wires.
Unhook the throttle cable.
Now remove the oil fill spout, remove the three 5/16" 12 point bolts from the IP drive gear.
Now remove the three 9/16" nuts that mount the IP to the drive gear cover.
Now you should be able to slide the IP back while raising the rear of the IP up.
With a little care, you should be able to remove the IP and injection lines as one unit.
After that is done, remove the four bolts that hold the IP grive gear cover down.
Very carefully lift the IP drive gear cover, but leave the IP drive gear settin on the cam drive gear.
As long as the gears do not become unmeshed, everything will be easy to get back together.
Clean the mating surfaces, a little RTV silicone on them, and you are ready to put it back together in reverse order.
First loosen all the injection lines from the injectors.
Loosen the fuel supply line coming from the fuel filter.
Remove the IP return line from the IP.
Unplug all the wires.
Unhook the throttle cable.
Now remove the oil fill spout, remove the three 5/16" 12 point bolts from the IP drive gear.
Now remove the three 9/16" nuts that mount the IP to the drive gear cover.
Now you should be able to slide the IP back while raising the rear of the IP up.
With a little care, you should be able to remove the IP and injection lines as one unit.
After that is done, remove the four bolts that hold the IP grive gear cover down.
Very carefully lift the IP drive gear cover, but leave the IP drive gear settin on the cam drive gear.
As long as the gears do not become unmeshed, everything will be easy to get back together.
Clean the mating surfaces, a little RTV silicone on them, and you are ready to put it back together in reverse order.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Calgary
Thanks for the advice. Tomorrow morning I will do just that. Now, the tach sensor has 2 wires coming off it that has a snap connector on the end. There is no female side for it to connect onto on my truck. I'm guessing I am going to have to wire those two wires my self into the cab. What di I connect them to? The two bolts on the back of the instrument cluster where the tach bolts into? Just my guess...
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Calgary
So I got did the whole process from start to finish without moving the ip gear. The truck now sounds like i sped up the timing. Especially when i rev the engine. It sounds like the ip is working hader and much faster. I sware that gear didnt move out of it's teeth. Do I tilt the pump back to the left to slow it down?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Top of the pump to the drivers side (right) is retard.
You want a bit of rattle when the cold start timing advance is on.
Rattle gone when the cold start advance kicks off.
Fast idle and timing advance both kick on and off at the same time, same switch activates both.
You want a bit of rattle when the cold start timing advance is on.
Rattle gone when the cold start advance kicks off.
Fast idle and timing advance both kick on and off at the same time, same switch activates both.
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