Here is my probably very stupid question. Where should the negative battery cable on a 4.9L I6 connect to? One end is of course on the negative post of the battery, but what about the other end? Should it connect to the body somewhere, or should it connect to somewhere on the engine relatively close to the starter?

There is a reason I ask, if you look back at my post about a melting wire when cranking the engine. Upon closer inspection, the negative cable from my battery is connected to the body of the truck and there is a piddly wire (I think it's 14-guage) from the engine to the quarter panel... the one that's been melting. Looking at the other two vehicles in my lot, granted they're both Ford V8's, the negative cable connects somewhere down by the starter ... without that piddly little wire from the engine to anywhere. And looking at a friends 96 with the 4.9L, there is no little wire there either. Will removing that little wire and re-connecting the negative cable to the engine solve my problem?

And while I'm on the electrical subject, is there any easy way to test an alternator to see if it needs replacing? Have Fluke multimeter, will use it or fry it trying!

Chris Pollard
Dryden, ON
Don't mind me, I'm crazy.
:-X11

 

On the side of the block usually just behind the alternator.

Make sure both surfaces are clean before attaching.

Also,there should be a braided cable from back of block/intake to the firewall.
Another braided cable from Hood to firewall.

[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]
[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]

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Thanks for the info! I found the connection for the cable on the side of the block right under the alternator and hooked up the negative cable there. Replaced my positive terminal while I was at it. I saw the braided line from the hood too. After re-connecting the negative I started it up and went for a very short drive to test things out. All was a little squirrelly. I turned on the stereo and it cut out when I pressed the brake pedal, then came back on. It went in and out with the signal lights too. After about two minutes I hit the brake and the temperature guage topped out ... then dropped when I stopped and let the brake off. So when I got back home I checked for the line from the engine to the firewall ... it wasn't there. So I ran a new wire from the engine to the firewall where the hood cable connected. Now the display on the stereo even shows up properly - before it was so dim it was barely visible, now it's bright and visible! All is perfect now - except the alternator is still no good! (I went through my manual and ran the tests with a multimeter to find the problem, alternator was it.) So thanks for the tips ... one step closer to having the truck running properly again! Payday I get an alternator...then I need to find that 55MPH drivetrain vibration. I think it's a U-joint.

Chris Pollard
Dryden, ON
Don't mind me, I'm crazy.
:-X11

 

You're more than welcome.
I love it when a plan comes together.

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[b][i][font color=red]Dennis[/font][i][b]
[font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font]

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[font color=blue]78 F-150 429CJ,Silver,Explorer Pkg.
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> Payday I
>get an alternator...then I need to find that 55MPH
>drivetrain vibration. I think it's a U-joint.

I remember a u-joint going out right before a trip between Seattle and SanJose. Started at about 45, but mellowed out at about 120, or rather become more tolerable.

 

I remember a U-joint going on my old 63.5 Ford Falcon on an 800 mile run from here to NW Indiana. How many of us have heard the sound of a transmission snapping in two at 60MPH, raise your hands! I am STILL amazed at how far you can drive a Ford with it's transmission in two pieces ... little 3 on the tree manual ... still shifted fine and drove along at 1500rpm for over 30 miles to the next rest stop. Miss that car.

Chris Pollard
Dryden, ON
Don't mind me, I'm crazy.
:-X11