Will NOT idle!
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I don't have a metal bucket any larger than the 1 gallon size. I'm guessing since the stuff eats rubber and plastic that pouring it into a plastic bucket would be a bad idea? I haven't read the directions on the can either but shouldn't the parts soak for about an hour?
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Gadsden Purchase
You really are a riot. :)
Alvin in AZ
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Success!! I disassembled the carb again and soaked the parts in chem dip, rinsed with carb cleaner, dryed, reassembled with a new (second) rebuild kit, reinstalled and presto! Let this be a lesson to everyone; all carburetor rebuilds should involve a bath in chem dip or something similar. I had to rebuild this one twice and the ONLY difference between the two builds was the chem dip.
Finally I can move on to the last stages of my resto! Next up, body work and paint! I can't thank you guys enough for the advice and support!
Finally I can move on to the last stages of my resto! Next up, body work and paint! I can't thank you guys enough for the advice and support!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 25
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Fast idle speed. Once your fast idle cam is properly aligned, you must adjust the speed at which the engine idles when the fast idle is engaged. You will notice that under fast idle, the throttle plates are open further. I usually adjust this to allow the engine to run at a 200-300 RPM higher than curb idle. Contrary to most of my statements in this post, this adjustment can be trial-and-error provided the linkage is working in the first place.
Choke cap index. If you're still with me, the choke cap is rotated toward the back of the truck. Now you must align it properly. On the rim of the black choke cap is a small notch. On the metal choke housing to which it attaches are seven notches. The goal here is to align the notch on the cap to one of the seven notches on the housing. Going from the back of the truck toward the front, the notches are represented as 3 Rich, 2 Rich, 1 Rich, Index, 1 Lean, 2 Lean, 3 Lean. On the emissions label attached to your hood or valve cover, it will say which notch to align the choke to. If your label is long gone, 1 Rich is usually a safe ball-park figure. This adjustment is often changed during winter and summer season changes. While you're doing this, this is a good time to make sure the choke spring is properly engaging the choke linkage tang inside the housing, as this is often overlooked during a carb rebuild. Once you have the choke cap aligned, tighten the three retaining screws back down.
Fast idle speed. Once your fast idle cam is properly aligned, you must adjust the speed at which the engine idles when the fast idle is engaged. You will notice that under fast idle, the throttle plates are open further. I usually adjust this to allow the engine to run at a 200-300 RPM higher than curb idle. Contrary to most of my statements in this post, this adjustment can be trial-and-error provided the linkage is working in the first place.
Choke cap index. If you're still with me, the choke cap is rotated toward the back of the truck. Now you must align it properly. On the rim of the black choke cap is a small notch. On the metal choke housing to which it attaches are seven notches. The goal here is to align the notch on the cap to one of the seven notches on the housing. Going from the back of the truck toward the front, the notches are represented as 3 Rich, 2 Rich, 1 Rich, Index, 1 Lean, 2 Lean, 3 Lean. On the emissions label attached to your hood or valve cover, it will say which notch to align the choke to. If your label is long gone, 1 Rich is usually a safe ball-park figure. This adjustment is often changed during winter and summer season changes. While you're doing this, this is a good time to make sure the choke spring is properly engaging the choke linkage tang inside the housing, as this is often overlooked during a carb rebuild. Once you have the choke cap aligned, tighten the three retaining screws back down.
I don't quite understand turning the choke cap back 90 degrees, do you just turn the cap till it aligns with the last mark?
And how do you adjust the fast idle speed? your post doesn't really explain that part, or I'm missing it somewhere.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Turning the choke cap back 90 degrees is only a temporary step. It is done so that the choke cap is guaranteed to be fully closed, which is necessary when setting the fast idle speed and index. When you're done with everything, you must return it to the proper index setting as explained toward the end of my original post.
The fast idle speed is adjusted with the fast idle cam in the fast idle position (throttle stop resting on the "V" of the fast idle cam). It is adjusted via the screw on the passenger side of the carburetor under the fast idle linkage, toward the back. It should be a few hundred RPM above curb idle - enough to keep the engine running with the choke closed as it warms up, but not so high that the engine is screaming or knocks hard upon startup.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
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OK i followed your thread here, and i think i found the problem.
I cannot for the life of me get my choke to open fully, how do i test the choke cap( with electric assist) to see if its bad?
It not the stock one, the truck had a manual one on, and i found this cap at a salvage yard, so it might not work right.
I cannot for the life of me get my choke to open fully, how do i test the choke cap( with electric assist) to see if its bad?
It not the stock one, the truck had a manual one on, and i found this cap at a salvage yard, so it might not work right.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
By the time the engine is at operating temperature, the choke cap should be completely open (vertical). If not, inspect the hot-air stove, and make sure you have power at the choke electrical connector (it will read about 7 volts if looked at with a cheap multimeter set to DC). Make sure the choke linkage is intact, and that the choke spring tang is properly inserted into the forked linkage inside the choke housing.
If all that checks out fine, yet the choke does not open with the choke cap properly indexed, then replace the cap.
If all that checks out fine, yet the choke does not open with the choke cap properly indexed, then replace the cap.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 25
By the time the engine is at operating temperature, the choke cap should be completely open (vertical). If not, inspect the hot-air stove, and make sure you have power at the choke electrical connector (it will read about 7 volts if looked at with a cheap multimeter set to DC). Make sure the choke linkage is intact, and that the choke spring tang is properly inserted into the forked linkage inside the choke housing.
If all that checks out fine, yet the choke does not open with the choke cap properly indexed, then replace the cap.
If all that checks out fine, yet the choke does not open with the choke cap properly indexed, then replace the cap.
Also i noticed another screw that's next to the choke housing, and it screws into a piece of plastic.
How do i adjust that for the choke operation?
I'm full of questions, it been along time since i messed with a carb,trying to get it right the first time.
Rusty Roller
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,423
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From: Santa Cruz Mountains
So you brought this 3yr old thread back needing help; ok. You at least need to let us know what you have..... Guessing by your name it's a 79 but some basic info is needed. Engine size? V8 or 6cyl? 1, 2 or 4 brl? Brand of carb? Stock or aftermarket?
Help us to help you....
.
Help us to help you....
.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 25
So you brought this 3yr old thread back needing help; ok. You at least need to let us know what you have..... Guessing by your name it's a 79 but some basic info is needed. Engine size? V8 or 6cyl? 1, 2 or 4 brl? Brand of carb? Stock or aftermarket?
Help us to help you....
.
Help us to help you....
.
Everything is stock on this truck so far.
OK i checked the voltage, its at 7.5v , so i checked the heat stove, and the inlet pipe was really clogged up, so cleaned that out.Its pulling about 10hg of vacuum now.
Let it run for a bit again, and the stupid choke still wont open all the way.
Is there a way to test the cap to see if its bad?
My label say to put the cap at 3 high. What is high referring to? Lean or Rich
I really appreciate your goes help.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Yes, I just explained that in my previous post.
I've never heard of that before. It's probably rich.
That's for the fast idle index; that's explained in my original post.
That's for the fast idle index; that's explained in my original post.