1990 E250 stalls
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 190
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From: Chesapeake, VA
1990 E250 stalls
Hi- I just got a 1990 E250 With a 302 in it. The Van has been off the road for over a year now. When it was parked there were no problems other than the steering. Some time I have to stay on the gas a little to keep it running when i first start it and then it will idle fine. Once it is warmed up the idle jumps around a little bit and then it may or may not stall.
Today I ran some sea foam through then vacuum lines and had the van running for over 3 hours and it sounded like a new engine. Once I put it in gear and started to back up it stalled. I had one foot an the gas and one on the brake to keep it running. Once I got going it was fine. I pulled into a gas station, got some new gas and went on my way.
About 30 to 40 miles later I pulled up to a light and it stalled and acted the same way again. One foot and the gas and one on the brakes
Does anyone have any ideas what to look for?
I do not have any check engine lights on.
Thanks for any help in advance,
Kevin
Today I ran some sea foam through then vacuum lines and had the van running for over 3 hours and it sounded like a new engine. Once I put it in gear and started to back up it stalled. I had one foot an the gas and one on the brake to keep it running. Once I got going it was fine. I pulled into a gas station, got some new gas and went on my way.
About 30 to 40 miles later I pulled up to a light and it stalled and acted the same way again. One foot and the gas and one on the brakes
Does anyone have any ideas what to look for?
I do not have any check engine lights on.
Thanks for any help in advance,
Kevin
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 658
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First, pull your codes. You do not need to go to a dealer for this (and probably should not.) You can buy a code reader, or go to Ford Fuel Injection to see how to do it without a reader. Many times, its cheaper to buy the tester yourself than have a shop pull the codes for you.
Common problems with these symptoms include the IAC and vacuum leaks.
-For the IAC, pull it out, clean it out with carb/choke cleaner (or anything really that will get it clean) and replace it.
-For vacuum leaks, the best way to diagnose them is with the propane test. Get a small cylinder of propane (like one you would use with a camping stove or torch) and stick an alan wrench in the opening gently, thus releasing some propane into the air. Spray propane along the vacuum lines while the engine is running. If you hit a spot that has a leak, the engine will rev up because the propane gets sucked into the manifold.
Hope that helps!
Common problems with these symptoms include the IAC and vacuum leaks.
-For the IAC, pull it out, clean it out with carb/choke cleaner (or anything really that will get it clean) and replace it.
-For vacuum leaks, the best way to diagnose them is with the propane test. Get a small cylinder of propane (like one you would use with a camping stove or torch) and stick an alan wrench in the opening gently, thus releasing some propane into the air. Spray propane along the vacuum lines while the engine is running. If you hit a spot that has a leak, the engine will rev up because the propane gets sucked into the manifold.
Hope that helps!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
Pulling your codes is always a good idea, but it sounds like you need to clean your throttle body out. Take it off, soak the IAC valve in cleaner, and clean it out as best as you can. Clean the throttle body out with cleaner and a small brush. Put it back together and I'll be you'll be surprised at how well it runs.
If your truck is stalling you may actually need a new IAC valve. Sometimes they get so stopped up they don't work at all and can't be cleaned.
If your truck is stalling you may actually need a new IAC valve. Sometimes they get so stopped up they don't work at all and can't be cleaned.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
It's a shiny metal cylinder on the throttle body. It has a wiring harness going to it with 2 or 3 wires. It sits on the TB so that it can bypass air around the butterflies.
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New User
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I did what andym said - cleaned throttle body when I took it out to replace the valve cover gaskets - and the stalling in idle stopped. I also replaced some vac lines I broke so that also might have done it. The truck runs much better now. (1989 f250 351)
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Chesapeake, VA
I went ahead and cleaned the throttle body and the IAC valve. It ran rough for a min or two and then it seemed to be okay. I didnt stall under a load but the idle still revs up and down and every now and then the throttle sticks at a pretty high RMP. It was doing this before to.
Any Ideas?
Any Ideas?
Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
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From: Jackson, Mn
Check to make sure your A/C-Defroster is off, you A/C compressor will cycle even in Defrost (Def) mode, for the throttle sticking, WD40 the cable, the hunting for Idle, The ECM is relearning itself, should go away.....
Elder User
Joined: May 2007
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From: Solon, Ohio
AutoZone only reads codes for OBDll which is 1996 and above on F-150's and later on most F250's and 350's.