Rear window help!
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: North Pole, AK
Rear window help!
Ok, my rear window started leaking so I read all of the threads about how to fix it. I go and get some of the rubber buytel calking and I take the rear window out. After looking at things, 3 of the metal studs are broken off of the rear window assembly (the leak was in the same area as the 3 broken studs). The studs have pulled loose from the plastic molding around the window. I could try to epoxy them back on but I don't know if there is enough surface area to hold, also the metal/rubber glue joint may not work that well. Another option is to buy a whole new rear window assembly but it is Saturday so I can't even check to see if they are available. Any one have this problem or have any suggestions? I tried several searches but did not find any thing.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
New window runs around $500 if tinted and heated. Best bet is to try salvage yard. I just replaced mine. The studs are more for location and seating onto the butyl caulk than serious mounting. I would just JB Weld the studs back in place. A tip: don't put the new butyl on the window until after you have practiced getting the window back into the opening. That new butyl grabs like crazy to anything it touches. If you don't get the window in just right the first time, you'll have a giant sticky mess to deal with and wind up taking all that new butyl back off - if you can get it loose from the hatch without breaking the glass. The hatch height makes it hard for one person to see where the glass edges and outside seal meet the body. The top edge is especially to mate with the body as the outer seal is the diversion for the majority of water cascading over the glass when it rains. It needs to seat tight against the body. When you practice without the butyl, you will see all these little issues that you need to watch for when doing the final placement. The nuts on the studs should just be slightly tight.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
Likes: 3
I was working alone, with the hatch propped about halfway up so it would be about horizontal with the floor. I'm not certain that is the best position because the hatch is too wide to find an easy position to 'drop' the glass into place - at least for one person. A helper would be beneficial.
If you have to work alone, you might try using two yardsticks, dowel rods, etc across the hatch opening to support the glass while you to manuever it around. Try this during your practice sessions to see if the supports can be placed without coming into contact with the butyl. Ideally, you would like to have the top of the glass tip into the opening to get the rubber seal seated before lowering the rest of the glass into place.
I put the butyl on the glass but there is probably no reason why it couldn't go onto the hatch opening first. This would likely give a lot more flexibility in moving the glass around without having the butyl latching onto everything but what you want it to. BTW, mineral spirits will clean up butyl nicely.
If you have to work alone, you might try using two yardsticks, dowel rods, etc across the hatch opening to support the glass while you to manuever it around. Try this during your practice sessions to see if the supports can be placed without coming into contact with the butyl. Ideally, you would like to have the top of the glass tip into the opening to get the rubber seal seated before lowering the rest of the glass into place.
I put the butyl on the glass but there is probably no reason why it couldn't go onto the hatch opening first. This would likely give a lot more flexibility in moving the glass around without having the butyl latching onto everything but what you want it to. BTW, mineral spirits will clean up butyl nicely.
