When I rebuilt the two barrel I had on the 352 in my truck the kit was about 30 bucks at napa. All the cabs ive rebuilt have had the little tag screwed down with a screw that holds the carb body together, its metal, look for this, take it off and go to a parts store, give it to em and they can find it that way. The 1 bbl on my jeep also had this tag so I would see if you have one. That way they can get you the right kit for the carb.

 

Most Carters YFAs don't have a tag, instead the list number is stamped into the throttle body casting. In this case you write it down and show the number to the parts store.

 

yes, yes, yes, and I don't know what a rotor is.

yes, that was the main reason of taking them out.

 

on the carb it either says Carter made by Motorcraft or Motorcraft made by Carter, I can't remember which one.

 

Keep looking; it's on there. It will be 4 digits, then a dash, then 2 more digits I believe. Some kind of arrangement like that. Each carburetor rebuild kit manufactured applies to a specific range of list numbers and this number you're looking for is used to identify which rebuild kit is required. Carter 1 barrel carbs were manufactured for decades; there were many variations.

BTW - just a fun fact, they were manufactured by Carter for Motorcraft.

 

Some thoughts;
Inline 6's are notorious for loose carbs-always check that when you have time-or major vac. leak.
Also, check the ballast resistor for your coil, it may be getting weak. It is normally bypassed during start so you get full voltage to the coil.

And, check your coil, the old oil filled can types will work forever, although they can burn out inside, just not producing full spark-and slowly die.

Check your vacuum advance and mechanical advance for smooth operation, and no slop. Your cap and rotor can get electrical "tracking" if they are old, look at the inside of the cap-do not touch, the oil on your skin can cause tracking-same with the rotor. Basically inspect them with sunlight, look for tiny lines like someone had drawn tiny lightning bolts with a super small pencil.

One more simple check-the motorcraft brain box needs to be grounded to the fender skirt-pop it off and clean it up, they tend to corrode on the mounting points.

That aside-Do make sure your fuel system is working properly, for safety, mileage, and engine life. Hopefully a good carb cleaning, and kit will smarten it up.

With odd problems, always try one fix at a time to pin point it-may save yourself time and $$
Good luck and keep us posted!

 

All good advice in that post, however I offer one correction; the ignition module grounds through the black wire in the distributor pigtail. The circuit board inside the box makes no electrical connection to the housing. Therefore this grounding surface is not necessary.

 

Doh! Thanks fmc400, I forgot about that!

 

Sidebar note your honor: (who wants to be the judge for the day? LOL)

When a carb is rebuilt I've always recommended spending a few extra bucks on replacing the float. The brass ones can have small leaks, creating an over rich condition even when you set the level correctly. The black ones have a nasty habit of (over time) becoming slightly like a towel. It will absorb fuel and throw the level off, creating again the over rich condition.

For me it's money well spent, last thing I want to ever do is deal with come-backs on a rebuild....having to tear one apart again after you think it's right? Might as well do it and get it over with LOL.

S-

 

I agree 100% with you Tedybear. I do that as well.

 

after hauling hay today if I get home at a decent hour me and my dad are gonna take the carb off. tomorrow or so he's gonna take it to NAPA and let the guy find the #s he needs for the rebuild kit. my dad's buddy is gonna help us rebuild it. hopefully then we'll be back on the road!!!

PS. my boss said there might be a fuel filter somewhere under the truck. he said people put the ones under the hood for convienence. did FORD put them under the truck or not? my tank is the rear tank.

 

He's probably thinking EFI. In that case the filter for fuel injection would be on the line out of the tank--where the fuel pump is LOL.

Almost every ford I've worked on with a factory carb? (70's and some early 80's) Has the fuel filter at the carb itself by design. Some people will put a clear filter BEFORE the filter at the carb so they can see if they have fuel flow, and how dirty it is.

S-

 

my filter is clear and it's by the carb.

change of plans. we pulled off the fuel filter today (tuesday 8/5/08) and the fuel filter was empty. of course we haven't started it since saturday, but that shouldn't happen, right? my dad told me tomorrow after work I'm gonna go and pick up a new filter at Napa. we're gonna see if the truck runs good or not. if not then we're gonna order the parts for the carb rebuild. the fuel filter could have a small crack in it and let all of the gas seep out. I guess it ain't gonna hurt if we get a new fuel filter. the carb looks on the outside like it needs a "clean up".

 

You'll need a new fuel filter when you rebuild the carb anyway. Might as well.

 

starting on the rebuild tomorrow. at the guy's house he will do the chem dip. we should be putting it back on the truck on Sunday and driving it to work on Monday. rebuild kit from Napa was $30.30. I'm ready to get Eddie back on the road!