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trans serviceing question

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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:38 PM
  #1  
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trans serviceing question

i have a 1997 f-250 hd with the e4od tranny and was wandering if i would be hurting anything if when i changed my tranny pan for one with a drain plug in it and only changing the filter and lost fluid and draining the pan again at 5000 miles or so as to cycle out the old fluid i only ask cause im a little short on money and i have a bad shoulder( torn deltiode ) that limits the amount of time i can work on the truck
 
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:43 PM
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I dont know about the cycle... But the drain plug in the pan will deffeinetly make things much easier... I did it to my 69... Some how always got a face full of atf... lil drain plug changed all that.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 12:36 AM
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Its not going to hurt anything, and putting in that pan with the drain **** will make your life so, so much better. When you drain it (if your shoulder allows) put a wrench on the crank and rotate it around so that the converter drains a bit.

Just the fact that you are changing your ATF means you are doing more than most people do for their tranny.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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i would really rather drain the whole converter but my shoulder wont allow it and thats why i was thinking i wold just fill and drain the pan a few times and cycle out the fluid over a few months
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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the convertor is not that hard to do.

rubber plug, disconnect coil wire, have an assistant crawl under to watch while you tap starter.

pan only holds like a tenth of the fluid, most is in the convertor.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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It's even easier to do it this way:

1. Remove pan and replace filter.
2. Replace pan and gasket
3. Replace lost fluid.
4. Disconnect one of the tranny coolant lines.
5. Clamp a clear piece of tubing to coolant line and place other end in a plastic bucket.
6. Start vehicle.
7. As fluid pumps out into bucket replace it quart at a time.
7. Turn off engine when new fluid is coming out of line.
8. Connect coolant line back to normal.
9. Top off fluid level.

This way you don't have to mess with the torque converter. The trans will pump it out for you.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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Going through all that is easier then just pulling a drain plug?
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 01:52 PM
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It's not a lot and it's real easy. Unless I misread it, he said he couldn't drain the torque converter because of his shoulder. I've never drained a torque converter so I guess I really can't say this is easier but if draining a torque converter is hard on a shoulder then this is barely more work.

I guess in all honesty the answer to his question is "yes." Replacing the fluid in the pan is all you get in a trans service. You have to pay extra for a trans flush.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 01:56 PM
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thanks for all the help guys i think im just going to end up draining the torque converter and suck up the pain in my shoulder for a few days thanks again for all the help
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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If he can remove/replace the pan, he'd really have no problem draining the TC via the drain plug then. Not at all hard to do, hardest part is turning the motor to find and line up the drain plug with the hole in the bell housing.

As said the starter can do that grunt work, at least to get it in view, then a large screwdriver can be used to pry it to get it lined up right.

The drain is on the outer most surface of the TC, not up in behind the flex plate on the front of it. Just have to remove a rubber plug to get to it, that is once its rotated into view. Really easy to do, to get at the way they made it for a change!
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:01 PM
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post if you have a problem.

you need a big pan, not an oil change pan.

use good fluid.

i use a quart of lucas trans. fluid.

i use a ford trans. filter.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:10 PM
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4 wheel drive? stock pan? If so you will need just over 17 quarts to fill it from empty.

Pour in 6, then start it and let it idle while adding a couple at a time stopping to shift it throughout the gear range and checking the level. Once you hit 14 quarts added back in add one at a time checking it. When it will jump right into gear let it move, roll itself back and forth a few feet on level ground between each quart.

Do not over fill it.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:14 PM
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yes its 4 wheel drive but im adding a deeper pan
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:22 PM
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You'd also do it good to make sure the clutch on the cooling fan is working. Sitting still at a idle the clutch fan should lockup and move air. You should not be able to see/make out the individual blades if its locked up and being driven by the motor when looking at it from off to the side and slightly behind it. If its just "free wheeling" you'll be able to see/make out the individual blades real easy and the gaps between them.

When "driven" its one constant blur as it spins, if you suspect its not working right, pull it off and give it a closer look. The tranny will tend to get hot if its not working and the trucks not moving.
 
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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where is the cluch cooling fan so i can check that
 
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