Well, get ready for this novel.

Started out that I was driving one day and noticed a slight shimmy when steering to the right. Later that day something let go and there was a very noticeable jog to the right or left. Found out it was a tie rod end that was pooched. Ended up replacing the whole linkage system.

Sooner after my hydro-boost started leaking quite substantially so much so that the pump started groaning. Of course I topped it up to get home but by the time I got home the pump was groaning again. Here I'm thinking that I likely damaged the pump and will have to change it soon.

I replace the hydro-boost so no more leaks. However, I notice that my steering is wonky again, but in a different manner. Appropriate trouble shooting pointed to the steering box this time. Sure enough it was worn quite bad. I guess 300,000 kms with big tires tends to affect parts.

I replace the steering box and pump just to be safe. The pump was the cheap part. What a difference, I can notice a very much improved steering feel.

HOWEVER . . .

I have had an alignment done to rule out this being the problem.

When I turn to the right or left, it feels like my steering "catches" and I have to turn the wheel more into t he turn in order to get it past the point to get the wheels to turn. Then it feels like it "lets go" and of course the wheels turn father than I would have originally intended due to the over-steer effort.

I am at a total loss other than thinking that the reman steering box I got is a bad rebuild.

Can anyone chime in on this and give me some insight in case of similar experiences?

As always, thanks to this forum for being such a useful resource!!!

Cheers!
Kalsc

 

The backlash in the gear box may be too tight. Is it an OEM type reman or an aftermarket upgraded type?

 

No doubt the steering should be smooth which it is up until the point where it seems to resist and let go. The steering box is a reman type, no upgrade. Came with explicit warning that adjustments were made at the shop to factory spec and do not adjust.

My problem is that we all know how reman parts go, even new parts, your not always guaranteed to get a part that is 100 percent.

Going to try putting my back tires on the front and rule out anything to do with a bad tire.

 

Where did you purchase it from? Do they offer any type of tech support?

 

Man, that is exactly what I thought when I read the symptom...I had this happen on my 1954 Chevy pickup many moons ago.

 

I agree with Roland. I adjusted the lash tighter on my gear box and had that same problem. It sucked. I was trying to adjust out my sloppy steering and ended up with jerky, tight steering. Replaced a few front end parts and adjusted my lash back to stock and the problem went away.

 

Update: Nothing to do with backlash in new steering box.

As it turns out 'something' fried the axle needle bearings in the recently installed new bearing assembly I put on 1.5 months ago, this in turn destroyed my locking hub due to the play. I thought maybe it was a bum bearing assembly. Pulled both sides off and sending back on warranty.

Bought two new bearing assemblies locally and installed. Drivers side is bang on, BUT . . . when I cinched up the passenger side, I noticed serious binding from the axle in the bearing assembly as it turned, very, very odd. Pulled passenger side axle and inner dust seal is destroyed!!!!

Things that make you go hmmmm . . .

Scenario 1: Recently installed new bearing assembly failed thereby blowing out hub and destroying inner dust seal due to play.

Scenario 2: Hub blew out and was binding on axle which destroyed assembly needle bearings and extra play destroys inner dust seal. Can't see it though since new, new bearing assembly started to bind with no hub installed.

Scenario 3: Punched inner dust seal causing axle to turn out of round and bind? (can't see it)

Scenario 4: You tell me, I'm at a loss.

All I can say is thank goodness these trucks are easy to work on.

Going to get new inner dust seal tomorrow and reassemble check for binding. I don't see how a punched inner dust seal

 

Ouch!

Thanks for the update. Filing this one away for future reference.

 

Ha! So scenario 4 turned out to be the axle u-joiunt siezing!!!! Makes total sense now. Everythings closed until Tuesday for long weekend, won't get fixed until mid-next week. Getting both passenger and drivers side replaced. Done with it. :-)

 

That was going to be my thought, glad you have it figured out. What holiday is it in Canada that would cause a long weekend?

 

I believe it just called a CIVIC HOLIDAY, in BC we call it BC day.
I'm from Calgary originally, Try Bowness Auto ,they used to be open 7 days a week. They used to stock tones of parts.

 

I just started reading this thread, and before I got done reading the first post, I was going to say "check for siezed u joints", then I realized it started a couple days ago, then I found out you already found it to be this problem. Siezed ujoints are very very deceiving. Expecially in steering, because your in 2wd, and never think to look at the u joints. Glad you got it figured out though!

 

No kidding it's deceiving! Pulled the drivers side too and guess what?!?! Siezing too. Odd because 4x4 worked great this past winter, guess it was time. Duely noted and added to the ckeck once a year page in the book.

 

If you get spicer non greasable u joints (little more expensive 30ish each IIRC) it will not be an issue, for aproximately another 9 years or so. Thats what the OEM joints are, and they last forever, and significantly longer then anyone elses greasable u joints. Everytime Ive taken a driveshaft to get balanced, (and I always use spicer non greasables) they always say "wow you actually have the good u joints". Also, on our early 99, it has 1350 spicer non greasables, (factory installed) and it has 235k, and the rear shaft has NEVER gotten new u joints, and they are all three tight and quiet (has a double cardigan at the TCase). Mine came with 1410 series, and I had a failure around 120k, but that was because of the harmonic dampner on the driveshaft wearing out and taking out the u joints.

 

Also so far in our little fleet of 99-03s (we have 4 PSDs in those years) Only one of them has needed u joints on the front axle, for the exact same reason as you, the rest are origional. Mines at 183k, early 99 at 235k, another 02 at 180k, 01 at 170k. The other 02 is the one that had the issue.