When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
After finally finding the leak in the center of my compressor, I was wondering if this can be repaired or is a new compressor needed.
Any help would be appreciated.
96 Ranger 2.3
Johnny
Assuming you mean the shaft seal is leaking, it is easier to replace the whole compressor unless you have the tools and skills to tear it down enough to replace the seals.
Thanks Steve,
I thought that was going to be the answer. I'm going to try a fix this old truck up. I've been on here looking around and trying to pick up as much information I could before I get started. I'm going to replace all of my o-rings also, should I flush the system when I replace the compressor, accumulator and dryer.
BTW, thanks a lot for your sticky at the top of this forum.
Thanks Johnny
I replaced the O-rings, pulled a vacuum and it held for over an hour. I thought the compressor was leaking but it wasn’t. At least I can’t get my detector to find it now. So I started charging the system. It would not take the Freon. I tried putting the can in warm water with no luck. It made the pressure go up on the gauge but would not suck in the Freon. I started the engine jumped the A/C Cycling Switch, the low side stayed at 35° the high side went to 35° it was at 0° I think, but it still would not take Freon. I sure could use some advice. I don’t know if this matters, but I didn’t have a can puncher on my gauge set, so I borrowed some gauges from AutoZone, and they leaked so bad I pulled the vacuum again, it held again. I checked the pressures both high and low read zero. Are these pressures right after you pull a vacuum? I’m not really sure if I should have flushed the system. I didn’t replace any major components. It didn’t take long at all to replace the O-rings. Oh! I almost forgot my compressor did sound a little whining that it didn’t do before now.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Johnny
I’m sorry my prior post indicated degrees in lieu of psi. That problem was an error due to my instructions for my gauges said clockwise to close; this was backwards, problem solved. I was just charging my gauge set. Freon charged but I don’t believe I have quite enough in the system.
TEMP.
AT CONDENSER 88°
CENTER REGISTERS 55°
PSI
LOW 24
HIGH 265
CLUTCH
ON TME 11 SECOND
OFF TIME 5 SECOND
AFTER ABOUT 10 MINUTES THE CLUTCH RAN CONTINUOUS RUN I SPRAYED WATER ON THE CONDENSER AND IT WENT BACK TO CYCLING.
When I disconnected the gauges it seems that my high pressure valve is leaking. I hooked the gauges back up to stop the leak; left the quick disconnect on the valve. Can this be replaced or repaired without replacing the entire manifold line? AutoZone has a coupler that converts R12 to R134, but to fix mine I would need R134 TO R134.
OK, I just took it for a drive for about an hour you couldn’t ask for it to work any better.
I haven’t checked the readings, will do tomorrow. I feel like I may have rushed the readings and the system hadn’t stabilized.
Johnny
When I disconnected the gauges it seems that my high pressure valve is leaking. I hooked the gauges back up to stop the leak; left the quick disconnect on the valve. Can this be replaced or repaired without replacing the entire manifold line? AutoZone has a coupler that converts R12 to R134, but to fix mine I would need R134 TO R134.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Johnny
Update, I now have good system pressure, high 265 low 28 ctr reg 43 deg.
I am very satisfied, thanks to this forum for all its valuable information. I guess I could leave the quick disconnect on the valve, but I would really like to fix it, any help. PLEASE!!
Thanks Johnny