Little background, slave cylinder replaced 60K ago, clutch master cylinder replaced less than 2K ago, along with fresh fluid for the transmission (correct fluid).

Notice lately the tranny wants to grind a little going into reverse.

Also notice at times if Im idling and put the shifter in neutral, it can be damn near impossible to get it into first and sometimes any gear. My trick used to be to put it in fifth or reverse and run it back over to first...but lately, its not wanting to go in any gear.

If I turn the truck off, it will go into any gear no problem.

Also notice the clutch slips a little when I first take off, not all the time, with 105K on the clutch, Id say thats normal.

The truck sits for extended periods (weeks to months) before its used.

When accelerating or when the truck is moving, it shifts fine.

I checked the fluid in the master, its full, oddly enough, when I checked the fluid, then put the cap back on, I noticed the truck shifted fine.......fluke? I dont see how that would make one bit of difference just an observation.

Im under the impression something is moving in the tranny when the clutch is engaged, maybe the pilot bearing is stuck, maybe the slave is going?

I just wanted to double check before I start throwing money at the clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing/slave...

anyone recommend a particular brand slave cylinder other than a ford replacement? or cost effective clutch kit for that matter?

Thanks

 

I should also mention, its inconsistant as hell. Earlier it went right into reverse but fought me to go into any forward gear (idling), finally it went into third, I could shut the truck off, put it in first and roll on. Then when I finally get back home, it shifted while idling like it was a new truck...only difference being, when I arrive home, I put it in first and travel for about 100ft before parking.

Main things would be reverse grinds sometimes, more often than not. If Im idling with it in neutral, it at times will be difficult to go into any gear. If Im slowing down I can downshift no problem but if once stopped I go to put it in reverse, it usually grinds. If the truck isnt running, I can put it in any gear.

I havent checked clutch travel yet, will do that later.

Im looking for some magical situation where I can fix it without having to install a new clutch kit.

On that note, for those that have done the clutch in this model truck. Where you able to loosen the crossmember, leave the rear of the tranny attached and slide it back enough to remove the clutch? Ill be doing this alone on my back and that would really be to my advantage.

Thanks

 

I'm not a transmission expert and you didn't provide any powertrain information but I'll share my story. I had an '88 Ranger a long time ago and it had an M50D 5-speed and a hydraulic clutch. All of the sudden one day, I am driving and try to shift gears. It passes through neutral and then gets stuck there; I can't get it into gear. I had to shut the truck off to get it in gear. This happened often. The transmission also made grinding noises with the clutch in; to keep it from grinding at stop lights I had to leave it in neutral (and sometimes shut it off to get into gear when the light turned green). I was told it was a fork in the shifting linkage. I never investigated further because the motor blew a couple weeks later. (pesky 2.9L V6's!)

 

> I was told it was a fork in the shifting linkage

You were told wrong, there is no shift fork or anything like it except the throwout bearing (if you want to call it that).

> before I start throwing money at the clutch/pressure plate/pilot bearing/slave...

I would say you need a clutch disc or a slave, though I would check the fluid level first. When I had hard shifting on my Ranger (mazda 5 speed) someone suggested full syn ATF and that worked.

 

This is the M5OD R2 or infamous mazda tranny in a fullsize truck.

I checked fluid level in the slave cylinder its good.

Fluid level in the tranny case itself, good. Not that it shouldnt be but its as red/clean as the day it came out of the bottle.

I checked slave cylinder travel, specs are .425, I marked off 1/2" it was right on.

I checked for any fluid or leakage around the slave cylinder, nothing, dry as a bone.

I notice pedal travel to disengage the clutch, seems the same as its always been, so I think this rules out pressure plate issues.

Every once in a blue moon the clutch will feel like its slipping a little as I engage it but hasnt slipped whenfully engaged, if that makes sense, so I believe that rules out the clutch.





What confuses the hell out of me, is Ill wrestle with this sucker, then there are the moments when it shifts right into gear like nothing was ever wrong. I dont know much about the transmission but isnt there something that spins to assist synchronization or shifting gears and if this certain thing doesnt stop spinning, then it causes the gears to grind a little, and this usually happens when at idle, which explains why I have no issues shifting gears while the truck is moving, which is why people recommend a thicker fluid?

As long as Im shifting gears under load or downshifting while moving and never take it out of gear idling, Im good to go, shifts like new.

If someone can sell me on the idea of synthetic and why it would help or recommend a thicker auto tranny fluid to use, Ill listen.