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Lost my ac last night while towing my boat to the shop to do some work on it. I popped the hood expecting to find a leaking a/c line. could not find anything, i look at the compressor thinking it was unplugged and found the faceplate (clutch plate) of the compressor hanging out resting on the fan shroud. It seems that the bolt in the center that holds the assembly together has fallen out. Has this happened to anyone else. Dose anyone know if i can get just the bolt from ford and if their are any other components like spring, clutch disk, and or spacers that should be in their.
Thank you,
Peter
If that kind of thing is just "falling off", it may be time for a new truck! Get it to an A/C tech. There's a whole lot of work and special tools to restore the integrity of that sealed system. DON"T WAIT! Being open to the air will cause all kinds of corrosion and dirt issues quickly!
OBTW: I NEVER heard of that happening, but WTH do I know?
Assuming the clutch hub/plate is the ONLY thing that's compromised, you should be able to go to your local parts store and order the hub. Since it's what's known as a "wear part" (i.e. it's supposed to wear out, like most any other clutch), it's available as a separate piece. You'll also need an installer tool to put it on, which Autozone SHOULD rent, if they have the right one. You may have to buy it otherwise -- $30 or so.
If the rest of the system has been compromised for whatever reason, you'll have to replace at LEAST the dryer, and the compressor, and ideally have a system flush since the system is now full of grenaded compressor shavings.
But look at the compressor closely. Chances are that it's not compromised.
I'm sorry but both of the replies are wrong. If the clutch disc is good condition look inside and see if the shim is still there. You may need to use a small screw driver or pick in the hole as it easy to miss. If it is, just obtain a new bolt, the clutch disc will just go on the compressor shaft with no special tools. If the shim was lost, obtain a shim kit and bolt, using a feeler gage get the clutch air gap between 16 - 20. If the clutch disc is damaged, replace both the disc and pulley. You will not need special tools for this either.
The clutch has nothing do do with system integrity or refrigerant. The system charge will be unaffected.
The exact samething happened to me. Took it back to my dealer and fixed it for free after the warranty was out. They just repaced the bolt and shims. They never heard of this happening but theres 2 now. I always check the bolt now!
The exact samething happened to me. Took it back to my dealer and fixed it for free after the warranty was out. They just repaced the bolt and shims. They never heard of this happening but theres 2 now. I always check the bolt now!
It must be a color thing. I have the same color and year truck, except i have the super cab not crew. LOL
I'm sorry but both of the replies are wrong. If the clutch disc is good condition look inside and see if the shim is still there. You may need to use a small screw driver or pick in the hole as it easy to miss. If it is, just obtain a new bolt, the clutch disc will just go on the compressor shaft with no special tools. If the shim was lost, obtain a shim kit and bolt, using a feeler gage get the clutch air gap between 16 - 20. If the clutch disc is damaged, replace both the disc and pulley. You will not need special tools for this either.
The clutch has nothing do do with system integrity or refrigerant. The system charge will be unaffected.
The front of the clutch assembly is what came off,actually it slid foward and rested against the fan shroud. It looks like a pressure plate with 3 flat metal rings or contact areas and the pully has the same rings, i was not sure if their was a fiber or some sort of clutch material between them or it was just the two pieces. I take it that the shim goes around the inner keyed shaft that the face plate slides over to hold the proper clearance. I will check for the shim in the morning, but i am guessing it prob. fell out. Any suggestions on the reinstall. I am guessing red lock-tite to keep the bolt from comming out again. As for tightning the bolt, i am figureing on sliding the clutch together and turning the a/con with the key on enging off so i can tighten the bolt, other wise the inner shaft would just turn, and i dont know any way to stop the compressure from turning.
Thanks again for all the help and info
Peter G
The clutch and pulley faces are both just metal, no fiber.
The shim is just larger then the bolt itself, If you look into the hole of the clutch disc from the back way down in the bottom of the hole is where the shim would be. This is why I suggested checking with a tool to see if it there as just looking you would not be able to tell.
If a new shim is needed, I use a small dab of grease then push it down into the hole, the grease will hold it in place.
I would not use red loctite as removal in the future would be tough. I just tighten them down while holding the clutch disc from turning with 1 hand. I have never had on come loose after that. If you are going to use loctite at least use blue.
Your idea of turning the clutch on to hold it in place while a good one would not work, as the clutch will not energize with the engine off. You could use jumper wires off the battery to make this happen, but would probably not be worth the effort.
Well thanks for the info. I take it i will have to go to ford and order the bolt for the compressure. I did not think about it but it make sense that the a/c clutch would not engage until the engine is running.
Well i am back in business. i replaced the front clutch assemby since they had it in stock and it came with the shim pack. So i replaced the front face of the clutch shimmed it to .018" air gap and everything works great. Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Peter G
I have a clutch that fails after 10 to 15 minutes of operation. I tested the circuit and there is voltage (12v) present but clutch is not engaged. What do I need to do to replace this clutch? I have located a new clutch but have never changed one before.
I have a clutch that fails after 10 to 15 minutes of operation. I tested the circuit and there is voltage (12v) present but clutch is not engaged. What do I need to do to replace this clutch? I have located a new clutch but have never changed one before.
Thanks for your help. Dave
My first suggestion would be to check the air gap and readjust with different shims as needed. I replaced my face plate when the bolt fell out and got a shim pack from ford with a assortment of shims to get the .18 - .20 air gap required. My guess is that the clutch surface is worn past its normal operating range.
Easy to replace, hold clutch with one hand and remove bold out of center, clutch face slides off, use a small pick and retrieve the current shim installed. Shim new clutch and should be on your way, When clutch is hot and not working can you do a resistance or continuity check on the clutch coil, Have come across a coil before that would fail under certain conditions, moisture and heat?
Springer pop has a write up for the clutch when it stops engaging after a few minutes. Try that before buying anything. I did it to mine and it has been working fine for over a year.
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