Twisted off bolt...Now what?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
Twisted off bolt...Now what?
Sorry for the long post...
I was removing the four bolts from the c-clips the hold the front of the front drive shaft to the pinion flange and managed to twisted off one of the bolts. I had a little stub of a bolts stuck in the flange and I managed to drill a hole in the center of the bolt. Using one of my square easy outs I managed to twist that off in the hole in the bolt.
So now I'm stuck on what to do. I suppose I can drill out the whole bolts and use a bolt and nut for that side of the c-clip. I would be worried about imbalance but I suppose I can balance it back out with hose clamps.
What I really like to do is replace the flange with a new one but I am not sure what would all be involved in replacing it. Is it a simple remove bolt, remove flange, beat new flange on with dead-blow hammer and replace bolt? It can't be that simple can it? I was looking through the workshop manuals and that's all it appears that's all I would need to do but I may be missing something.
I was removing the four bolts from the c-clips the hold the front of the front drive shaft to the pinion flange and managed to twisted off one of the bolts. I had a little stub of a bolts stuck in the flange and I managed to drill a hole in the center of the bolt. Using one of my square easy outs I managed to twist that off in the hole in the bolt.
So now I'm stuck on what to do. I suppose I can drill out the whole bolts and use a bolt and nut for that side of the c-clip. I would be worried about imbalance but I suppose I can balance it back out with hose clamps.
What I really like to do is replace the flange with a new one but I am not sure what would all be involved in replacing it. Is it a simple remove bolt, remove flange, beat new flange on with dead-blow hammer and replace bolt? It can't be that simple can it? I was looking through the workshop manuals and that's all it appears that's all I would need to do but I may be missing something.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
First, do NOT beat it with a hammer 
You probably have a Dana 50 (or Dana 60) front end?
You can just pull the flange, replace it, and torque down the nut. The Dana's do not use a crush-sleeve to set the pinion bearing preload - they are shim-based. So it's a piece of cake to change the flange.
Change the seal while you're there too
You probably have a Dana 50 (or Dana 60) front end?
You can just pull the flange, replace it, and torque down the nut. The Dana's do not use a crush-sleeve to set the pinion bearing preload - they are shim-based. So it's a piece of cake to change the flange.
Change the seal while you're there too
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
Thanks for the reply. I have the Dana 50 and I was looking at the shop manual and didn't see a crush-sleeve so I thought it was just a simple matter pull the old one off and put the new one on. Just want to make sure I wan't missing anything.
Replacing the seal is a good idea as well. Anything else while I'm at it?
Replacing the seal is a good idea as well. Anything else while I'm at it?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
I think they say to use a new nut - but not sure on that one.
Just don't beat the flange on with a hammer ... you'll screw the pinion/ring teeth... I'm still cringing from reading that
If it's hard to get on, wire-brush the splines on the pinion and lube it - it SHOULD just slide on ...
Just don't beat the flange on with a hammer ... you'll screw the pinion/ring teeth... I'm still cringing from reading that
If it's hard to get on, wire-brush the splines on the pinion and lube it - it SHOULD just slide on ...
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Millersburg, OH
I wasn't planning on using a metal hammer but a dead-blow hamer (plastic) or rubber hammer. In the workshop manual they refer to using a "soft-faced" hammer which I would assume means dead blow or rubber hammer.
