Blend door Modulator fix
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Parsippany Morris
Blend door Modulator fix
There is no need to remove the entire dashboard to fix the common blend-door to modulator (motor) connection break on the Ford Explorer. I was successful inserting a pin through the modulator stub which now opens and closes the blend door without any problem whatsoever. The quoted fix by the dealer was $750 to gain access and replace the door assembly; my cost was zero -0- except for the time it took for it along with three earlier failed attempts, with glue and fiberglass. This final repair was made a year ago and still going strong.
For what it's worth.
Anyone who would like details on how this was done, let me know.
For what it's worth.
Anyone who would like details on how this was done, let me know.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Parsippany Morris
Blend door Modulator fix
Okay - the modulator (servo, motor, whatever) sits on top of the blend chamber in which the door is located, which sits behind the glove compartment door. Simply open the glove compartment empty it out, squeeze the sides and it comes down completely. I removed the entire container by removing the two small screws - now you have full access. The module looks like a (white) square, flat box and has about six or so wires attached via a single plug - in plain view once you duck down and look in. The whole thing sits on four pop-pins and can be removed - popped up and off - with a large wide flat head screwdriver - carefull, pry on all accessible sides.
Oh, before you pop it out, match the temperature setting with what you're getting from the system, i.e. if you're getting hot air only, put the controls on HEAT; if you're only getting cold air, set it for COLD - just in case.
Okay, pop the unit out and leave the wires attached. With the engine running, change the setting to the opposite, i.e. if you took it out calling for HEAR, ask for COLD and vice-versa and watch the pin on the bottom of the unit rotate about 90 degrees. Then set it back the way it was.
If the pin does not rotate, it could be only the module that's shot and you either check the solder connections and fix it (like I did)or buy a new one from the dealer for $58.
Before you put it, or the replacement module (motor) back in, again make sure you set the controls for the same position as what you're getting from the system, i.e. if it's blowing hot, set the controls for HOT and vice versa.
If the module works fine and turns as you tell it to, the hole in the top of the hinge of the blend door is shot.
It's a plastic door with a plastic hinge - the top of the hinge fits the pin of the module and the bottom sits tight in the bottom of the blend chamber. With your pinkie (or with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight), you will find that the free portion of the "tube", i.e. the top of the hinge, is missing. By free, I mean the portion of the hinge/tube that is not the door itself. Like the smily face with the dramatic dropping chin - the top 30% of the "head" will be missing. :-staun The chin here is the door.
They used cheap, crappy plastic that can't withstand the fluctuactions in temperature and becomes brittle, then simply breaks off in little pieces.
Now, if you still know the position of the door and you know the position of the servo, because you synchronized the two, you can drill a small hole on a 90 degree angle TO THE DOOR, through the pin, right smack-dab in the middle, and put a smooth piece of metal through it (I used stainless), just large enough so it will fit through the hole in the top of the blend chamber. Remember it has to be tight so it can't move either way - I used a small skinny screw of which I removed the head after properly sizing it, plus flattened and smoothened out the sides that were going to make contact with the door. Work, squeeze, jiggle, maneuver this thing back in (don't force) and if the two units were still synchronized it should plop back in place. Snap the box back into the four little pins and everything should work once again just fine.
I found that after horsing around with the module for several attempts to get it going, I loosened up some of the solder connections to the plug - I simply re-soldered them - but make sure that when you're ready to snap the box in place that your connections are still sound. It would be a shame to have to start all over again and I am not even sure how easy it is to get the whole thing back out with the modification.... Believe me, unless I have to, I won't try...
If it works like it did for me, you too saved yourself $750 or more (quote I got from the dealer more than a year ago) go out and buy yourself a six-pack of beer.
Oh, before you pop it out, match the temperature setting with what you're getting from the system, i.e. if you're getting hot air only, put the controls on HEAT; if you're only getting cold air, set it for COLD - just in case.
Okay, pop the unit out and leave the wires attached. With the engine running, change the setting to the opposite, i.e. if you took it out calling for HEAR, ask for COLD and vice-versa and watch the pin on the bottom of the unit rotate about 90 degrees. Then set it back the way it was.
If the pin does not rotate, it could be only the module that's shot and you either check the solder connections and fix it (like I did)or buy a new one from the dealer for $58.
Before you put it, or the replacement module (motor) back in, again make sure you set the controls for the same position as what you're getting from the system, i.e. if it's blowing hot, set the controls for HOT and vice versa.
If the module works fine and turns as you tell it to, the hole in the top of the hinge of the blend door is shot.
It's a plastic door with a plastic hinge - the top of the hinge fits the pin of the module and the bottom sits tight in the bottom of the blend chamber. With your pinkie (or with a mirror on a stick and a flashlight), you will find that the free portion of the "tube", i.e. the top of the hinge, is missing. By free, I mean the portion of the hinge/tube that is not the door itself. Like the smily face with the dramatic dropping chin - the top 30% of the "head" will be missing. :-staun The chin here is the door.
They used cheap, crappy plastic that can't withstand the fluctuactions in temperature and becomes brittle, then simply breaks off in little pieces.
Now, if you still know the position of the door and you know the position of the servo, because you synchronized the two, you can drill a small hole on a 90 degree angle TO THE DOOR, through the pin, right smack-dab in the middle, and put a smooth piece of metal through it (I used stainless), just large enough so it will fit through the hole in the top of the blend chamber. Remember it has to be tight so it can't move either way - I used a small skinny screw of which I removed the head after properly sizing it, plus flattened and smoothened out the sides that were going to make contact with the door. Work, squeeze, jiggle, maneuver this thing back in (don't force) and if the two units were still synchronized it should plop back in place. Snap the box back into the four little pins and everything should work once again just fine.
I found that after horsing around with the module for several attempts to get it going, I loosened up some of the solder connections to the plug - I simply re-soldered them - but make sure that when you're ready to snap the box in place that your connections are still sound. It would be a shame to have to start all over again and I am not even sure how easy it is to get the whole thing back out with the modification.... Believe me, unless I have to, I won't try...
If it works like it did for me, you too saved yourself $750 or more (quote I got from the dealer more than a year ago) go out and buy yourself a six-pack of beer.
