Rust Removal
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Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2008
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Rust Removal
I bought a 1994 black f250 hd 4x4 with 5.8 auto and Fisher plow with 33,000 miles. The body and interior is nealry flawless and original paint nearly 100% perfect. The cahssis however has some rust buildup, inlcuding a leaky side mount fuel tank and or filler which I noticed whn filling it up and the transmission crossmember appears heavily corroded.
Without taking it to the shop and taking the body off the frame I want to know what works best for rust removal and protection. I started out wire brushing and got most of the heavy stuff off. Do I need to buy a sandbalster for better results? Do I need to get to bare metal?
So many products out there, I'm not sure which to use ie. POR 15, Klean Strip, Chasis Saver, Rust Doctor, Bill Hircsch Chassis Black and Duplicolor also saw a bill Hirsch gas tank sealer. Any recommendations?
Without taking it to the shop and taking the body off the frame I want to know what works best for rust removal and protection. I started out wire brushing and got most of the heavy stuff off. Do I need to buy a sandbalster for better results? Do I need to get to bare metal?
So many products out there, I'm not sure which to use ie. POR 15, Klean Strip, Chasis Saver, Rust Doctor, Bill Hircsch Chassis Black and Duplicolor also saw a bill Hirsch gas tank sealer. Any recommendations?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Winnfield,La.
Eastwood has the chassis paint, can you get to a good power washer, If so that maybe the best and cheapest way to go get it as clean as you can, grease and oil must be off and then apply the converter. your not going to get good results with sand blasting if you have any grease build up the sand just hangs on to the grease, you would have to go to a industrial blaster to get enough power to cut threw that stuff.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 648
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From: Saskatoon
Of course the BEST thing you can do is to sandblast it. This gets ALL the rust - off the surface anyway! If there's any in behind, take off what you can to blast the underside and the back. Hooefully there's no perforations - if so, it'll require surgery.
If you can't sand blast it, POR15 is the best I've used. It's so damn hard after it's dried - perfect for the undercarriage. Of course prep is key. Wire wheel and wire bruch what you can (as you have), then spray with Metal Prep (from POR15), then wipe off and brush on the POR15.
If you can't sand blast it, POR15 is the best I've used. It's so damn hard after it's dried - perfect for the undercarriage. Of course prep is key. Wire wheel and wire bruch what you can (as you have), then spray with Metal Prep (from POR15), then wipe off and brush on the POR15.
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Joined: Jun 2001
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From: Vancouver Island
There are sandblaster attachments for pressure washers. This is the most energy effective way to sandblast, plus there's no dust. You'd need to blow it dry right away, then wipe with metalprep or Ospho. This could still be pretty messy to do on an assembled truck.
Maybe a spot blaster that keeps the dust and excess sand contained would be better if you've just got limited areas to do. Or you could tape a big plastic bag around the frame you're working on to keep the sand and stick the blaster nozzle inside. This has worked well for me doing smaller parts.
Once the metal is really clean and rust free, any waterproof tough paint ought to protect it. Something catalyzed, like Imron, but brushable, and hopefully less toxic. Polyurethane "liquid plastic" paint seems pretty good, but it takes months to harden fully. If you live near the ocean, there could be some good paints available from marine suppliers.
Maybe a spot blaster that keeps the dust and excess sand contained would be better if you've just got limited areas to do. Or you could tape a big plastic bag around the frame you're working on to keep the sand and stick the blaster nozzle inside. This has worked well for me doing smaller parts.
Once the metal is really clean and rust free, any waterproof tough paint ought to protect it. Something catalyzed, like Imron, but brushable, and hopefully less toxic. Polyurethane "liquid plastic" paint seems pretty good, but it takes months to harden fully. If you live near the ocean, there could be some good paints available from marine suppliers.
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Rust Removal
Well, here's where I am. I wire brushed and power washed and also used a soft dust pan type brush to brush away any left over debris and dust. After all the great tips, I sprayed on Duplicolor's Rust Fix which a friend recommended to me.
It went on nice but after two coats it still loos a little thin. So I'm probably going to give her a third coat this weekend. Duplicolor salesman recommended using an undercoating over the rust Fix. Would chassis paint work as well or is that more or less the same type of material? The biggest problem was getting the top sides of the rails clean. Should I just glob on a bunch of the undercoating or paint and hope it covers most of it?
I also wanted to attach a picture or two, anyone know how to attach photos froma desktop folder?
thanks
It went on nice but after two coats it still loos a little thin. So I'm probably going to give her a third coat this weekend. Duplicolor salesman recommended using an undercoating over the rust Fix. Would chassis paint work as well or is that more or less the same type of material? The biggest problem was getting the top sides of the rails clean. Should I just glob on a bunch of the undercoating or paint and hope it covers most of it?
I also wanted to attach a picture or two, anyone know how to attach photos froma desktop folder?
thanks
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Saskatoon
First off - I don't know if I would have powerwashed it! I'm guessing you have some sitting water now in some spots, especially on top of that rail...hopefully you blasted it with compressed air really well after.
As for the top side of the rail, make sure it's dry, then you can spray or brush as much as you can in there, let it dry (few days), undercoat it (some since you're using spray bombs, just use a sb undercoating), then - go back (few more days) go back and spray any kind of oil/WD40/penetrating lube with a straw into any crevices where the paint didn't reach.
That's pretty much be a complete backyard anti-rust program!
As for the comment on humid areas or close to the ocean, POR 15 (no I don't work for them) is a magical compound that cures faster/better in more humid conditions. So, closer to the ocean is even better! Regardless where you use it, it dries like a rock and seals out air/moisture. It's really the best "real" rust fix I've seen to date. Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator apparently does the sxame thing.
As for the top side of the rail, make sure it's dry, then you can spray or brush as much as you can in there, let it dry (few days), undercoat it (some since you're using spray bombs, just use a sb undercoating), then - go back (few more days) go back and spray any kind of oil/WD40/penetrating lube with a straw into any crevices where the paint didn't reach.
That's pretty much be a complete backyard anti-rust program!
As for the comment on humid areas or close to the ocean, POR 15 (no I don't work for them) is a magical compound that cures faster/better in more humid conditions. So, closer to the ocean is even better! Regardless where you use it, it dries like a rock and seals out air/moisture. It's really the best "real" rust fix I've seen to date. Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator apparently does the sxame thing.
