Stumped and Desperate
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Stumped and Desperate
I have an 1985 Ford F150 I bought it cheap, body and tires good I rebuilt engine it ran great for a few days and has been a nightmare since. This is what I have replaced so far. Sensors of ALL kinds, Alternator, regulator, fuel pump, ignition parts but it seems now I have a short out wiring problem which I can only describe because I can not find the name of the part anywhere. The wire comes off the distrubter goes into a block that has a different colored wire coming out of it the block has directional flowing power diodes in it. ANYONE understand what I am trying to say and can you help me before my wife takes a bat to my truck.
P.S. It's EFI
P.S. It's EFI
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Yes
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Sorry Went to Bed before this post
I have a 5.0 engine and the wire colors are brown and green.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Welcome to FTE
As Original: The electronic parts under the hood have Ford engineering ID number/letter codes on them. When decoded, the part number will be known.
The codes are either on paper labels which were glued on, or the number is moulded into the plastic housing or stamped on metal parts.
Does the truck run, then die...then start up again in a few minutes? = Bad ignition module is the usual (very common) problem.
The usual 3 step scenario of a failing ignition module:
(1) Module overheats, engine dies, module cools down, engine restarts in a few minutes.
(2) Module overheats, engine dies, module cools down, engine starts after an hour or so.
(3) Module overheats, burns out, now engine will not restart.
Where is the ignition module? The type Khadma pictured ^^ above ^^ mounts to the left fender apron.
Another type is screwed directly to the dizzy, is this what you are describing? If so, it's been a problem child since the 1980's.
Rectangular shaped plastic housing (light brown/tan in color) held to the dizzy with TORX headed screws.
The ignition module ID will be: E3EF-12A297-A1A or A2A. The actual Ford part number is: E43Z12A297A (Motorcraft DY425)
Take a look and post what you find.
As Original: The electronic parts under the hood have Ford engineering ID number/letter codes on them. When decoded, the part number will be known.
The codes are either on paper labels which were glued on, or the number is moulded into the plastic housing or stamped on metal parts.
Does the truck run, then die...then start up again in a few minutes? = Bad ignition module is the usual (very common) problem.
The usual 3 step scenario of a failing ignition module:
(1) Module overheats, engine dies, module cools down, engine restarts in a few minutes.
(2) Module overheats, engine dies, module cools down, engine starts after an hour or so.
(3) Module overheats, burns out, now engine will not restart.
Where is the ignition module? The type Khadma pictured ^^ above ^^ mounts to the left fender apron.
Another type is screwed directly to the dizzy, is this what you are describing? If so, it's been a problem child since the 1980's.
Rectangular shaped plastic housing (light brown/tan in color) held to the dizzy with TORX headed screws.
The ignition module ID will be: E3EF-12A297-A1A or A2A. The actual Ford part number is: E43Z12A297A (Motorcraft DY425)
Take a look and post what you find.
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Pictures
1st pic this is my ignition module and I already replaced it last week 2x's, 2nd picture is the part of the harness that is in question. Is there something in the sealed part of pic 2 that could short out causing the truck to die when it warms up? One of the times it died we played around with some of this wiring somewhere and got it to restart. Let me know if there is anything else you need to see or if the pic's not good enough to tell from.
Thanks alot for all the help I am a mechanic but I am not use to working on Ford's and this has really got me stumped.
Chris
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Besides the ignition module, did you also replace the stator (pickup coil) in the dizzy?
If the stator goes bad, the symptoms are usually the same as the module.
E8PZ12A112A .. Stator (Motorcraft DU30C) [replaced E3ZZ12A112C]
MSRP: $74.44 / ftepartsguy.com price: $40.20
What module are you buying to have to replace it twice?
The autoparts store Made in China modules are crap!
If the stator goes bad, the symptoms are usually the same as the module.
E8PZ12A112A .. Stator (Motorcraft DU30C) [replaced E3ZZ12A112C]
MSRP: $74.44 / ftepartsguy.com price: $40.20
What module are you buying to have to replace it twice?
The autoparts store Made in China modules are crap!
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I was buying the ignition module twice. But no I havent changed the stator. I did buy the cheap china module. I have another distrubutor is there any way to tell if the stator is bad. I didnt try to pull any codes after it died.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 787
From: Simi Valley, CA
Is the engine dying, then restarting after a bit of time?
Bad ignition module/stator in the dizzy is the usual cause.
Look at post #8 for the usual 3 part scenario of a failing ignition module/stator.
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The truck will start and run for a while then it will die like you turned it off. Then you try to restart the truck and I got no spark coming from my coil to the distrubator. Then it will start after while.