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I been driving my truck a lot recently and started noticing when my truck and transmission is cool it seems to shift real firm but once it warms up I'm thinking it gets to warm and it dont seem to shift the same once its warm. Would adding an after market transmission cooler make the shifting better?
Next Question I believe my bands are slipping a slight bit, I have looked online and in the book and see a few different ways being told how to do it. Should I go with what the book says? It says to take off lock nut then turn the adjuster to 120 inch pounds then back off 1.5 turn then reinstall locking nut, then I also read online it was the same concept but it was a different poundage adjustment...
Final question, does the c6 have a torque converter drain plug? Instead of dropping my pan can I just unhook one of my transmission lines and drop it in a bottle to drain the fluid, then drain the converter?
The converter has a drain plug. I wouldn't try to get the fluid out the way you describe, you might damage the transmission. You probably need to change the filter, too. I bought a large drain pan/container for about $10 at the parts house and didn't get a drop on the driveway. I think my C6 holds 13 qts. I used a bottle of Lucas additive and it helped the shifting smoothness. I took the line going from the transmission to the oil cooler off and applied compressed air to force the fluid out of the cooler and lines.
I changed all my fluid with type F. It still seems to be in a high RPM range when I'm going over 45 MPH. It shifts around 15 and 45 MPH now. It just feels like there should be another gear around 50 or 60. Should I adjust my VRV valve more or adjust my modulator? Which directions do I go with them?
Welcome to the world of having a c6 with more than likely 4.11 gearing. If that's your setup, then you will have to live with it. Your top speed is probably around 70mph, since that engine has a governor that kicks in around 3300 rpm.
I have the same setup with the 7.3 diesel, and the rpm's are a little bit better since it has 35 inch tires, but I do not get very good fuel mileage with the large tires and the lift.
I don't believe that trans takes type F fluid. You don't have to take the int. band adj. screw lock nut all the way off, just back it off enough so it wont interfere with the torque setting. I've got 4:11 gears in my 86 and there are many times I felt I needed another gear.
ive looked at the tag on my rear end and it shows it having 3.55 gears. I am ditching the Type F and going with dexron 2
I have also tightened my bands up to 120 inch pounds then backed it off a turn and a half. The adjuster screwed in a whole lot before it got to 120 inch pounds...
I'm hoping my transmission isn't going bad!
It still dont seem like my passing gear is kicking in...Any tips? And yes its hooked on both ends.
ive looked at the tag on my rear end and it shows it having 3.55 gears. I am ditching the Type F and going with dexron 2
I have also tightened my bands up to 120 inch pounds then backed it off a turn and a half. The adjuster screwed in a whole lot before it got to 120 inch pounds...
I'm hoping my transmission isn't going bad!
It still dont seem like my passing gear is kicking in...Any tips? And yes its hooked on both ends.
How do you figure out the gear ratio?I've looked at the tag on mine and i can't figure out which set of numbers tell me my gear ratio.
How do you figure out the gear ratio?I've looked at the tag on mine and i can't figure out which set of numbers tell me my gear ratio.
Post your tag numbers.
I'm starting to think my transmission is toast or my modulator valve or the VRV valve needs adjusted. Everyone is right about diesels are easy to get out of wack with shifting. My shifting is at 15mph and 35mph?
What does yours shift at?
What gets me is if I drop the shifter into 1st and manually shift it the RPM's seem to be lower as the noise isnt as loud. When I start off in drive the RPM's are high and it sounds louder when it gets up around 50mph.
Could it be that I have the wrong modulator valve in it? There is a green one and a purple one available, how can you distinguish which one is the proper one?
Maybe its that my VRV is all out of wack. I been looking on how to properly adjust it.
Ive drained the torque converter and transmission, and replaced everything with dexron III, Since you cant find dexron II.
I have also done some researching on the net and another possibility is the governor on the transmission, is this on the outside or inside of the transmission? Others have said it controls shifting also and may be sticking...
If none of this works I may get a different rear end with different gear ratio...
Did you change/clean the filter? When adding the Dexron3 did you take the good advice and add a can of Lucas? Have you checked your vacuum pump output lately? Should be around 20in. mercury. This can alter shift points if bad. You can also alter shift points by adjusting the vacuum modulator on the injector pump, although check your vacuum first.
Well the filter is new. I'm not to sure about using additives in the transmission. Anyone recommend Lucas? I have not checked my vacuum output, my pump is new although that dont mean its good, so I will need to get me a vacuum gauge and check it. I do believe my VRV, the thing on the injector pump is out of wack.
If this helps I just had my C6 rebuilt. They built a 2000rpm stall converter and made the 3 clutch pack into a 5. This is suppose to be bullet proof for towing. The Rebuild shop told me the three functions of trans fluid are #1 COOLING,#2 Lubrication and last is function of the transmission. He recommended a supplimental lubricant which maybe the Lucas but I don't remember. He also said that Amsoil synthetic trans fluid is the @#$%! It's expensive but one doesn't need to change it out very often. Oh I had a shift kit which eliminates overlap between gears. The tranny now shifts firm and quick. A cooler of the new stacked plate design (not just flowing through a finned tube) is also a good idea. Heat is the main enemy of transmissions. Some ven add a in-line transmission filter in addition to the screen in the pan. You may have known all this but hope it helps.
I would like to get mine rebuilt but taking to the shop would be to much money for me to fork over. I could do it myself but ive never done one but with some books and FTE I could get it done...I thought of buying another c6 to rebuild so I could still keep my truck together while I do it.
Also I got the tag number off it. Could you figure out what modulator valve I would need?
The number is
PJE C1 L24B
E3TP AHB
Also do you think adding the 5 clutch packs would be a do it yourself job?
Also whats a stall converter and what would it do to help me?
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