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New Oil Pan Time!

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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 05:02 PM
  #1  
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New Oil Pan Time!

Thanks to another FTE Member for sharing their experience....I'm ready to put a new oil pan under my early 99 350. It's only at about 110k. What else while I have the pan off? Oil Pump? Oil Pump Pickup?
Thanks, Tim
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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Yes to all your questions.
I would also make sure that all eight of the oil squirter jets are tight. They have a tendancy to come loose every once in a while.
Then your piston melts because it gets overheated = rebuild time.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 06:11 PM
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You do know the motor has to come out for the change right? I haven't had any issues with the LPOP or pick up tube in mine. Maybe check your up pipes for leaks before you start so you can address that while you're doing it.

Any other mods you're interested in? There should be plenty of room to play with it.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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Pan

Originally Posted by F350-6
You do know the motor has to come out for the change right?
As soon as I found out about the motor needing to be pulled I grabed some sandpaper cleaned up the rust on the pan and painted it ASAP. I’m praying the pan gives me another 100K.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:11 PM
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Because of an earlier thread, i checked mine out too, mine was ok.
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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Yep...I learned about that about a year after I purchased the truck. I was all over that pan looking for rust that night!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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Might try some POR-15. Stops rust in its tracks. Many here have used it and mine is in the garage waiting for the next oil change. Mine has a couple bad rust spots on it too. Good Luck
 
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Old Jul 1, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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Amazing how simple sandpaper becomes when standing next to an engine pull.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 04:17 PM
  #9  
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I'm not gonna pull the engine. Yes, I know it's controversial, but I'm cutting the crossmember. My engineering background and small metal fab capabilities at home make this a viable option for me. I have a 6 month old and a million other things to do around the house......so I cant take that kind of time right now.....but the bottom of my trucks oil pan looks like I frosted it with JB weld. It's got at least 6 seeps and 2 holes. I've been patching it for a year now as new leaks appear. It's just time for a new pan.
So a new oil pump, pickup, check the oil squirters and hmmmmmm.....yes I think I 'll Paint the new OEM pan with Rust Bullet. Any other suggestions welcome!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 04:36 PM
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For those that have done the rust bullet or por-15. how much did it take to do the oil pan? Any other parts on the truck you suggest doing?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Just curious TimJ, but with your background, have you considered drilling out the rivets on the cross member and using high strength bolts for assembly, as mentioned by a previous thread?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Tim J
I'm not gonna pull the engine. Yes, I know it's controversial, but I'm cutting the crossmember. Any other suggestions welcome!
I do love controversy. Would you be so kind as to take pictures along the way and post up pics when you're finished.

You might as well inspect the dipstick tube really well and make sure you don't need to replace that while the pans off (unless the new pan comes with a new bolt on tube)
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:19 PM
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TXFordguy- Havnt done mine yet but when I ordered it the woman said the starter kit would be plenty for the oil pan. Think it was about $18.00 IIRC for the por-15
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by lhud
Just curious TimJ, but with your background, have you considered drilling out the rivets on the cross member and using high strength bolts for assembly, as mentioned by a previous thread?
This would seem, at first glance, to be a real viable alternative to pulling the engine or cutting the cross-member. I have never heard of anyone using this approach...has anyone else?

Oh and my pan is like new...one of the last advantages (other than no state income tax) of living in Nevada.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2008 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by nlemerise
This would seem, at first glance, to be a real viable alternative to pulling the engine or cutting the cross-member. I have never heard of anyone using this approach...has anyone else?
I agree, and if it were me replacing the pan, this sounds like an approach I would try since I'm not really sure how much you would have to disconnect before welding on the frame. It seems like I recall seeing it discussed, but don't think it was actually done or followed up on.

Reps to lhud for throwing this one out there.
 
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