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Pull the pin on the breakaway switch; if the battery's good and everything's wired correctly the brakes should activate. MAKE SURE the trailer isn't plugged into the TV when you do this.
It doesn't matter if its plugged in or not. A very common test to see how well the trailer brakes work is to pull the pin then try to drag the trailer. It matters not if the trailer is plugged in or not.
On the contrary, it does matter. If you pull the breakaway pin with the tow vehicle and the trailer plugged in it can toast brake controllers. Some controllers don't take kindly to having voltage backfed to them. Unplug the truck and trailer and then pull the pin.
Here's another way. It'll take two people and a compass. With the trailer hooked to the TV, have a friend step on the brakes, at the same time you should be holding the compass near/next to the first wheel. Repeat for all the others. If the magnet works, the compass needle should/will deflect from normal. No deflection ,magnet not working or you may have a wiring problem to that wheel.
You should check with your DOT to see if a breakaway system is required; even if it isn't, they sell for around $60 which is cheap insurance if you ever have a trailer get loose on you - JMHO.
Lift the trailer wheel up with a floor jack, make sure it spins freely, then use a CLUB or piece of wood jammed between the brake pedal and driver's seat to activate the brakes. Then try spinning that tire forward.
In the RV shops I worked at, most guys would set the controller to max and lightly hit the brakes to see if the trailer grabbed, or use the over-ride switch.
The best way is to lift one wheel at a time as rebocardo said, but have someone try the brakes while turning the wheel by hand.
This way you can check for different amounts of "GRAB" when the controller level is changed, and also check for full lockup when the over-ride is used.
If your trailer has to have brakes and it has electric brakes, you need a breakaway. I have to get my trailer inspected every year, which is a PITA but what ch gonna do.
I use the overide to test the brakes. 4 smoke clouds says there working fine.
Use a battery charger clamp the Gound to trailer frame Pos. to the light plug in brake wire Then take wheel off an see if a screw will stick to the mag.
The magnets may work fine, but if the mechanical parts are not working, or if the brake linings are worn out - you won't be able to tell without a spin test.
And let's face it, if they don't grab you're going to have to open them up anyway.
some of the hub seals were leaking so I pulled them all packed the bearings cleaned the drums and changed the shoes that needed it and now my breaks quick working. I know my controller is good and I know my brakes were working before I cleaned them off but now they dont work and I find it odd that they would all quit at the same time.
You should have less than 1 ohm, and DO NOT PIERCE WIRES!
Only BACKSIDEHOLES do that. It destroys the protection of the wires from corrosion.
*Why on earth would you want to cause MORE damage while finding the trouble?
USE CONNECTORS!!!!
If you don't have the right equipment, get some.
"Oh look, the sun is moving. Perhaps you should move the car so it is still under THE SHADE OF THE TREE!!!"
My God how that gets me upset....
Shade tree mechanics will send you down the road with RUINED stuff, mark my words. You have to ask yourself if there is a logical reason why a part fails or if the problem is solved OR IT IS NOT.
(Sorry about all of that, and it is not directed at you)
I think the ground needs tracing to make sure of it.
Next check signal with a meter. Not Digital for this - you need an ANALOG one, with a needle that swings.
REMEMBER THIS!
You CAN'T check signal with a digital meter.
Use a TEST LIGHT.
(don't forget the milliwatt test signal the controller sends to find out about connectivety)
A digital meter will read 12V, and you'll walk away thinking: "Okay - it has it...." when it doesn't have enough current. A Light will tell the truth.