I wonder why they don't use brushless DC motors for all these motors in vehicles. They seem to hold up much better with a lot of use.

 

They are more expensive, and have a relatively complicated control circuit, though that shouldn't be as much of an issue nowadays.

 

I was gonna say, every fan in a computer is a brushless DC motor. For $10-15, probable less, a really powerful brushless motor could be made. I can't see the brush motors being that much cheaper now a days.

 

I never heard of using it in the gas tank, but was told to use it in my air tools when I was a green wrench monkey.

First thing in the shop - drop MMO in all the air tools, and crank them to spray out the excess.

A lot of the guys used tranny oil, I never did. I have replaced a lot less air tools.

Dunno. it works for me.

 

Well, that's why the word "mystery" is in it's trademarked name I guess. Nobody can quite pinpoint the exact reason why Marvel Mystery Oil seems to work in various applications, for the majority of us!! LOL

Ed

PS Plus, it's reasonably priced, a product most everyone who is a DIYer on their cars/ SUVs, Vans and Pick-Ups can afford.

 

I used MMO twice in enginges back in the 80's, once in the Daughters 77 Cellica's 20R SOHC engine, after it began to "puff" blue smoke on morning start up's.

The previous owner had used Pennzoil straight 30wt in it, for his wifes morning commute of 50 highway miles & I found while adjusting the valves, that the engine was really varnished up med-heavy, on the top end.

So I guessed the start up smoke problem was likely varnish on the valve stems causing it to weep past the seals on the overnight soak.

It only had 40K miles on the engine, so I didn't think the seals were likely baked out & hard.

He had just changed the oil when she bought the car in July, so I drained a qt of that new 30wt out & put a qt of MMO in the crankcase & a specified oz/gal MMO treatment in the gas tank.

Slowly, week by week, you could see less & less of a "puff" of blue smoke on those morning start up's & by the sixth week & time for the next oil change, it had completely stopped smoking.

I changed the oil & filter & in went Havoline 10W-30, which it continued to get for the next 15 years & when she sold the car in 98, it still wasn't smoking, or using any oil between changes.

Did the same treatment to my 78 Merc Zypher's 3.3L when a valve lifter collapsed on me while out for a Sunday drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway & I had just come off a long up hill pull & the engine was good & warm.
Any way when I got home I added a qt of MMO to the crankcase & drove it for a few days until it quieted down, drained the crankcase, changed the filter & that puppy has been quiet with regular changes of the specified 10W-30 Havoline on 3-4K OCI's, until I sold the car last month!!!!

Don't know that I'd use a whole danged qt of MMO in a crankcase now days, but at the time it seemed to be the thing to try!!!! lol

Makes a really good lube for my old Dynamark mowers chain drive & wheel bearings, as it'll drift WAY farther & faster on a roll & it'll do it for WAY longer, when lubed up with MMO, than with the specified motor oil.

Good on car door hinges too!!!!

Yup it's been around for a long time & folks have found MANY uses for it over the years!!!!

 

Why is Ford and the others freaked out about a little (> 800ppm) phosphorus in the crankcase oil then? Very little of that gets burned, certainly less than the amount of MMO burned when deliberately mixed with the fuel. Just asking.

Jim

 

Probably the same reason why Ford (and other car manufacturers) don't authorize oil additives: They are unecessary, unregulated, and with the numerous products on the market (additives) there is no way to go through all of them and say "these products are okay, these products avoid" in the Ford new car owners' manual. So Ford simply shuns all of them, and says don't use them.

Same with gasoline additives, specifically MMO. Plus, MMO has directions for applying it's product in emission controlled vehicles right on it's container. If it was actually causing problems for o2 sensors, cats, injectors ect. they (MMO) would be sued left and right for claims on damaged engines, and emission parts. The product would have been pulled long ago off of retail shelves, and if nothing else, the "add to diesel and gasoline" removed from it's label and product instructions.

Remember, MMO should only be added in the ratio stated, and less is even better. You don't need to have a large quantity of MMO in a average gasoline tank to achieve MMO's peak benefits.

 

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Good post, paw paw, I enjoyed reading your experiences there with your daughter's Toyota.

Have a nice 4th Holiday weekend with your family, and that includes everyone here on the FTE Oil and Lubrication Forum. -- Ed

 

It's an emissions thing.

The Manufacturers & Govt have data that shows that phos & zinc get after the cat converter over time & cause it to be less efficient or die, so they have mandated lower levels of those elements in our motor oil, or that they be replaced with somethig else, which is being worked on for the GF-5 lubes, even as we speak.

As Jim said, aftermarket products don't have to pass any tests, to be put on the shelf for sale, so their recipe could change at any time, for better or worse & the manufacturers sure don't have the time or money to test all the aftermarket items out there right now, much less the oes to come, so they just say don't use any of them, as it's far safer & less expensive for them to just publish a few words & say "Don't Use"!!!!!

BUT, if we just can't resist pouring something in our rides, ALL of the manufacturers have their own brand "pour-in's" that we can come by, that are for the most part safe to use, IF we can read & follow directions!!!!! lol