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I am attempting to remove the steering gear box and need some assistance, as I have never had done this before.
1. How do I remove the Pitman arm from the steering box? I have no info, but I assume there are splines on the shaft coming out of the box. Do I use a small gear puller? After 43 years, it is solid.
2. The Pitman arm attaches to the center shaft. I have removed the cotter pin and nut on the connection. How does this come apart? I have tried prying, pulling, and swearing, but I cannot get the center shaft and Pitman arm to seperate.
I am attempting to remove the steering gear box and need some assistance, as I have never had done this before.
1. How do I remove the Pitman arm from the steering box? I have no info, but I assume there are splines on the shaft coming out of the box. Do I use a small gear puller? After 43 years, it is solid.
2. The Pitman arm attaches to the center shaft. I have removed the cotter pin and nut on the connection. How does this come apart? I have tried prying, pulling, and swearing, but I cannot get the center shaft and Pitman arm to seperate.Thanks in advance
You need a pickle fork aka a Pitman Arm puller to get the Pitman Arm off the steering box' sector shaft.
The Pitman Arm to the center shaft (draglink) was just pressed in by hand when new (the ball stud is on the draglink).
43 years later the two have bonded together due to wear and corrosion.
Remember the old saying... "When in doubt, don't scream and shout...just use a bigger hammer!" Soaking that sucker with PB Blaster will help.
There are special pullers to accomplish this task. If you have a parts store nearby, you can rent/buy them. It will make the job much easier, but it still may take some rust eater and time before stuff breaks loose. It may be easier to leave the pitman arm on the box, if there is room to remove the box this way. Then you can remove the pitman arm on the bench, or just get a new pitman arm for your new box. If you have to remove the pitman arm to remove the box, there is a puller for that also. Again, there will be much corrosion to overcome. Some heat will help. Remember, slow to anger. Cheers..
Tommy
NumberDummy beat me to the punch...
Last edited by tommyleea; Jun 27, 2008 at 08:41 AM.
Reason: late
When I pulled my spare a few yrs ago, I left the pitman arm on...Its easier in my opinion to seperate at the drag link...if you have a tie rod seperator like a picklefork it will pop pretty easy...I used a big bar and put a little load on the 2 towards seperating...and a 5 lb hammer...if you do decide to split at draglink, be sure to put the nut on backwards untill flush with the ball stud so as not to maim the threads. Also, knock away as much of the caked on grease in the striking area.
It took me 3 good whacks and it had popped..
Another, easier and equally as fast IMO is to pull the gear with center link and tie rod assy still attached...the lower spindle arm bolts to the spindle itself...this is a 65 only setup as 66 up they cast the lower spindle arm into the spindle itself.
To get to the bolts and nuts...pop the front drums off and as i recall they are 11/16 or 3/4 and not too terrible high of torgue...I think 50 or so lbs...
If you are redoing the front end, might as well pull it as as a unit and seperate away from truck. The gear itself weighs a good 50-60 lbs...the pitman arm is an excellent part to use as leverage when pulling it and when carrying it after its pulled out. And definately have a helper holding the gear as you remove the last of the 3 thru frame bolts that secure it to the frame.
This is a great thread. I'm trying to remove manual gear box from my 65 f250, with pitman still attached. It seems like the pitman draglink connection should come apart quite easily, but after some tire iron and a steel pipe action, and some swearing, it is still resistant.
Found this pic on the web of perhaps the action I should take next....
This is a great thread. I'm trying to remove manual gear box from my 65 f250, with pitman still attached. It seems like the pitman draglink connection should come apart quite easily, but after some tire iron and a steel pipe action, and some swearing, it is still resistant.
Found this pic on the web of perhaps the action I should take next....
Yes! Although a 2lb'er might be better suited. Personally I would choose to use a pickle fork first. Then go to the BFH, or both, if need be. But that method is tried and trued on any tapered interface.
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