does anyone have problems with their alternator. I have a 02 diesel 4x4 and it already has had the alternator changed out twice, and my battery light just came on again. Is this a common problem among this here beast's of our's or just mine. Any info would be greatly appreciated

 

No, it's not common.

Where are you getting your replacement alt's from? What brand?

Stewart

 

Be sure and have a good charge on your battery before you start your engine with the new alternator installed. If your battery is depleted, then you can damage your new alternator.

 

I had to replace mine. I rather suspect that I'm just too hard on it. I run a lot of things on the 5 provided powerpoints both with the engine on and with it off.

I'm not sure what the base load of the vehicle is --- ie: the draw with all the lights, A/C and whatnot on, but I rather suspect it doesn't leave a lot of spare capacity in our stock alternator.

Then you add a trailer (charge curcuit 10A, lights 10A), laptop (20A) cooler (10A), navigation (2A), phone (2A), coffemaker (20A), blanket (15A) (that's 90A).

Then you consider the whopping punishment the batteries take to start a diesel engine (and run the glow plugs for 1 minute after starting)

... and you've got that stock alternator running at or above capacity for large chunk of time. Don't forget that 150A of charge current would be required to recharge those two 75A/h batteries in 1h. My little 10A charger takes over a day.

The only reason I replaced my stock alternator with another Ford part is that it blew before a trip and I didn't have time to wait for a better part to be shipped. There are drop-in replacements that are double and triple the capacity of the stock unit (check out ambulance conversions at the wrecker that have been shmucked).

 

thanks guys if this one craps out im gonna go with an after market one. Any recommendations would be appreciated thanks

 

Can you please answer my questions in the first post?

Thanks!

Stewart

 

I had one go out a couple weeks ago, however my 2000 7.3 PSD has almost 200,000 miles on it! As per a previous reply, make sure your battery has a full charge with the new alt. or you can burn it up. Good luck!

 

I sure learned this the hard way about 20yrs ago!!!

 

No, it's not common.

Where are you getting your replacement alt's from? What brand?

Stewart

oops sorry the first one was through the dealer and the second one was by the used car dealership that I bought it from. So I dont know the brands

 

I replaced mine on my v10 because of my stereo. the factory alt is 130 amps. i was running my stereo and the auto meter amp current gauge and volt gauges were showing 125 amps and only 11.8 volts at 2000rpms. i called Home page , DAVES DC ELECTRIC, click link, and he sold me a dual alt setup with 2 brand new custom 145 amp alts. the 1 alt runs the truck and the second alt runs the stereo. i got a dual battery tray from wrangler, they are the only ones who make it for the v10. now, i can run the stereo and a/c and lights and everything, and my ap current still shows the draw the same, which it should, and the volt meters show 13.7 for the main and 13.5 for the second alt. just remember, when you can, dual alts are always better than 1 large single alt if you are running heavy draw extra components. the cost for the dual alts, $635. cost for 4 autometer cobalt gauges and pod $600, cost for the second battery and tray, $375. all in all, totally worth it. i could have gone with a single 300 amp alt for a bit more $$$, but they told me that the dual alt setup would be better. now i get no flicker of any lights or anything when i have all my stuff going. i contacted dave and he said he does have a dualalt kit for the 7.3 and 6.0 trucks. i didnt ask for prices.

 

I just replaced mine with a OEM ford dealer rebuilt one. 88000 on my 6.0 ex. And I tow a bike trailer a few times a year. But what the hell I had done the v / b code springs and billstein shocks . New improved sway bar links(poly Bushings now) from ford and sway bar bushing. (stock rubber one) .Steering stabolizer is ready to bold on .

 

My OEM for my 6.0 was 110 AMP. It had not failed but with my X being a LIMITED with all the bells and whisltes, mostly electrical and eletronic, plus dual batteries to keep charged, I thought I was close to the limit especially in the winter. So I replaced my OEM with an after market 6G large case 160 Amp alternator from National Quick Start for $300 shipped. They have replacement alternators up to 220 AMPs.

A couple of things you need or should do. First swap pulleys from the OEM to the aftermarket. The aftermarket pulley is smaller and that affects belt tension. Second, add a #4 wire from the alternator ouput to the passenger side battery since the aftermarket alternator has a higher output.

DSMMH

 

dont forget about the grounds. if you upgrade your alt, you have to upgrade your power AND grounds. the reason why they install a smaller pulley is so the alt spins faster to give more power at idle. most tensioners will take up the difference from the smaller pulley and if they dont, the next best thing you should do is get a smaller belt. the company you buy the alt from should be able to tell you the correct size belt. it is NOT wise to take an alternator that has been built to provide extra amps and remove the pulley and install a larger pulley because it will slow the alt down and generate less amps. again, get a smaller belt or see if the tensioner will take up the difference and still be snug on the pulley.

 

thanks guys i will look into everything and get back to u on what I do

 

Mine went out at around 190,000 but has been good since.