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I did a search and couldn't come up with an answer. What is the amperage of the alternator on the 7.3? Mine just took a dump on the way home this weekend from the river, we were about 90 miles out and had no problem getting home but when I checked it it was dead. I am probably going to go with a higher amperage alternator just to be safe so I won't have any problem. I will be running a winch to get a sand rail on the back of the truck and upgrading the stereo in the future. I found THIS one, don't know if it is good or not. There is also a local shop that rebuilds alts and starters and I think he can up the amp on them also. Does the part houses have the "high amp" ones or will it be just stock? I read that alot of people are having problems with the part house replacements going out on them, but at least they have a lifetime warranty. I am not in a huge rush to get a new one so I could wait for one to be shipped.
I'd check with your local guy to see what he can do for you first. If he's way to expensive, then order one. The key is to get good output at lower rpms.
I had a local guy build mine. While it was pricey, it puts out 160A at idle and 230A at 1500 rpms. I like to support my local economy and if I have problems I don't have to ship it.
If you're going to run a winch and do it right, you need a lot of current. Upgrade to #2 cable from the alternator to the battery if you go with anything near 200A.
The ones from the local parts stores are 110 amp. My manual lists a stock 130 amp alternator. There are a few suggestions in that thread for alternators others have used. If there's a local shop that does the rebuilds on site, I don't see you going wrong with that option.
I think I'd pay more for higher current and quality, and not for powder coating.
Pop
I could care less about the PC just thought it was a decent amp alt for the price.
Originally Posted by megawatt00
Don't forget that if you go too high on the amperage you may have to change out some of the output wiring to a larger guage.
I found a thread on that while searching and am on top of it.
Originally Posted by AustinS
I'd check with your local guy to see what he can do for you first. If he's way to expensive, then order one. The key is to get good output at lower rpms.
I had a local guy build mine. While it was pricey, it puts out 160A at idle and 230A at 1500 rpms. I like to support my local economy and if I have problems I don't have to ship it.
If you're going to run a winch and do it right, you need a lot of current. Upgrade to #2 cable from the alternator to the battery if you go with anything near 200A.
Austin
As stated above found the wire thing in a search. I am hoping the local guy can get good amps out and not as pricey as some of the links posted.
The ones from the local parts stores are 110 amp. My manual lists a stock 130 amp alternator. There are a few suggestions in that thread for alternators others have used. If there's a local shop that does the rebuilds on site, I don't see you going wrong with that option.
I do remember reading part of that thread but didn't come up in a search. I will have to read the full thread later, gotta get dinner started.
you could cheat though and just run a #2awg to the battery couldnt you jim. sorry for no caps, got the baby in one hand, and loving it
Yes Absoutly. I should have made that clearer. All you would have to do is make sure that you have good tight clean connections (crimps). A loose connection = higher resistance =heat. I have to add an inverter on another of my trucks. When I do I'll try and take some pics of how I prepare and crimp the cables. BTW the best source that I have found for making my own cables is a welding supply shop.
BTW the best source that I have found for making my own cables is a welding supply shop.
Heed the wise Megawatt's advice. Welding supply. Very finely stranded copper wire with pure copper crimp connectors. Soldered after crimping. Shrink sleeving.
OKay, question time to Jim, strandad cable for frequency such as welding,Frequency travels the "skin" of the wire, so more strands, better frequency, right? Solid wire for voltage and load? I used #2 THNN
OKay, question time to Jim, strandad cable for frequency such as welding,Frequency travels the "skin" of the wire, so more strands, better frequency, right? Solid wire for voltage and load? I used #2 THNN
Pat, true to a point. In a higher frequency type unit such as a welder you use a finely stranded cabel for two reasons, 1 because of the higher frequency the stranded wire does help carry the load and the frequency better. 2 the cable is much more flexible and thus easier to move around.
There really isn't much of a difference between the load carried between a solid wire and a stranded wire. Using a #2 AWG THHN is fine the wire is rated for 100A ac. There might be a slight amperage deduction for dc. There was a company I beleive it is Cobra Cable, they made a finely stranded cable that the amperage was rated higher than other cables of the same guage. Ex. a #2 100A a cobra #2 maybe 125A. The way cables are rated AWG wise a 14 is a 14, 12 is a 12, etc. The difference is in the insulation of the conductors, and where it is used, pipe, underground, free air etc. This is where the difference in ampacity's between wires come from.