75F350 you had mentioned that you could find Saginaw boxes for 75 to 150 in price. Could you get some info on where and how. I am also going with Bullet Proof cross over system to eliminate old TRE problems any recommendations

 

I used a 16:1 4 turn saginaw box from a late seventies dodge motorhome, although many 2wd trucks can also be used as a donor. These are real comon boxes from salvage yards. These boxes can be found on many, many vehicles. There are two input splines sizes, but even the rag joints are available over the counter from retail parts stores.
Since these boxes are available in such large numbers, they are cheap, and parts are easy to find when out on the trail.
This is real important when you are wheeling miles away from home.
My decision to use this box was its reliability and simplicity.
Again you must use a 2wd steering box. Most 4wd application boxes have the wrong sector shaft and will not permit the pitman arm to be re-indexed, thus not allowing you to use anuthing other than push pull steering. Remember that the pitman arm has got to sweep from left to right in order to convert to x-over.
The second reason I decided to use the saginaw box, was because it mounted from the outside of the frame. This was inportant to me, because of my lack of space on the inside of the frame. See I run a reciever hitch on the front of my truck, and it really limited space, and made the use of a ford 4 bolt (78/9) power steering box real difficult to use.
After some slight modifications, I mounted the box, and have not ever had a problem with the 39.5" boggers rubbing the box during a hard right turn, even at full stuff.
Many folks say that mounting the box "outboard" have issues with this, but I have never had an issue.
These are very reliable, and effective boxes. They are pretty strong, and easy to
re-build. I have broken one sector, and I have broken an entire housing. Both were my fault, I let the box get a little loose, and I tore all of the mounting tabs clean off of the box. Again this was my fault. The next time, I was wheeling, and I struck a hidden object with a wheel. Spun the steering wheel out of my hands so fast, I almost broke my wrist. When the wheel hit the lock, I bent the stock tie rod, and busted the sector out of the box.
Future plans are hydro assist, which will take all of the load off of these components, and saftey wire has solved the fastener issue.
I alsi re-enforced the inside of the frame to spread the load over a larger area to prevent cracking. None thus far, knock wood.
Rod ends helped with clearance, but TRE's might be a cost effective wat to go. Chro-mo ends get a little spendy, and do require a little extra maintenance. Though I have never had a heim fail, I know it is coming eventually.
Use a quality end whichever way you go.
Feel free to look through my photobucket at my junk, and let me know if I can help.

Image of saginaw power steering conversion - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting

 

I believe I heard someone said these were common from 86-95 2wd GM is this true. I have a yard here finally called me back and said 25 if I take it off and 40 if they do so a little cheaper than I thought. Have you heard of the Bullet Proof steering systems and if not I will leave you be on it but seems like a good system. They have 3 ratings up to a Rock crawling system dont know if I need that much but still looks decent. Got info through Jeff's Bronco Graveyard good sponsor check it out tell me what you think.

 

You are very welcome, and it appears that you have found a reasonable source for your new box. I do believe, and I am very confident that GM used thse boxes well before 86.
Either way, you will have to use a 2wd box, and then you will have to use a pitman arm from a dodge truck. Depending on your lift, you may need a drop arm of some sort, and you will not find it for a chevy 2wd. The sector splines are the same, and any off road shop can hook you up.
You will have to tapper the end for use of the GM TRE. (if the use the common 2026, and 2027 TRE's)
I have heard little of the "Bullet Proof" system, but I believe this is because they are more oriented for chevy trucks.
Since this is a total custom application, you will not be able to purchase a complete bolt in kit. Your frame dimensions are a little different than a chebby, and this will effect the length of the drag link. If I recall a chebby uses approx a 50 1/8" drag link, and this is measured end to end. Your HB should only require a drag link that is several inches shorter. Failure to get the right length link, can and will result in a steering system that will not work, or will have a limited turning radius.
It was easier, and cheaper for me to fab everything on my own. Mounting locations, and such can vary, so in this case, it should be tackled as complete custom install.
The pieces are available almost everywhere, are you not in a position to make the components yourself?
Installing the box will require some welding, will you be able to handle this too?
You will be pleased with the install. A quality crossover set-up is super nice on the highway, and even better when off road.
I almost forget how big the truck actually is when I am cruising the local freeways. Steering with one hand is almost unheard of, especially over 75 or 80 mph.
The trucks turning radius is awesome for something as large as it is. Even small parking lots are gravy.
I just cant say enough good things about this conversion.

 

Appreciate it Hoss I got some of the pictures of everything on my Albums if you get bored

 

I took a look at your gallery, and the site for the steering stuff.
You have some real nice looking trucks there. The white on looks like a fun project.
Kinda makes me want to head over to the shop and work on some of my junk. MAybe tomorrow I will do that.
As far as I can see, the Bullet Proof stuff appears to be quality stuff, but does look like it is a little on the expensive side.
I can t see where you get a steering arm or anything of real value for the money.
They do use a decent rod end, and the F911 fastener is what I use, though I do not use a small diameter bolt for high angle, or high mis-alignmeht applications. I make my own spacer for this, and maintain the larger diameter bolt. My smallest bolt and rod end is
3/4", and the remaining ones are 7/8" chro-mo ends with F911 bolts, and saftey wired.
Weld in tubing ends are available, and fairly cheap. They are available in both right hand, and left hand threads, and they are even available for the chebby TRE's.
The TRE's are really pretty cheap, and if you can find a short piece of DOM for the drag link, the most expensive piece would be the tubing itself. Looks like you can get the box for a decent price. So making your own components would be a very cost effective solution.
box 40 bucks
Pitman arm (new 60 bucks) look at the salvage yard. Some trucks have the correct one. Mine was an original unit from a motorhome.
2026 and 2027 chebby TRE's about 100 bucks for the pair
Threaded inserts and jam nuts, about 30 bucks for both ends.
Steering arm for D60, with chebby style studs, about 60 to 100 bucks.
Hunk of DOM tubing approx 100 bucks if you can find a rem.
Misc welding wire, it consumable tungsten if mig welding (minimal).
This would be complete for about 450 bucks.
This is much less expensive than any kits that I have seen, and would be the same quality.
Few little things will add up, like new hoses, and fittings, but this is all nickel and dime items.
Starting from dead scratch. if a guy had a little time to shop around for some real deals, I would say that a guy could perform the conversion for 450 bucks or less, depending on some deals he could find.
Using heim ends could add to this cost, but this is a reasonable figure.
The rest would be time and labor.
I forgot to mention that your hydro assist if it is still functional still has some value, and many owners still require these parts, so there is a demand for used power assist units.
These are not cheap, so your used stuff can really offset the above estimated cost.
Again, nice trucks man. Look real good., all of them.

 

I did also forget to mention that if you decide to go this route, a good upgrade would be to use a saginaw pump as well.
You will also have to fabricate a new steering shaft, and may have to get a little creative with new steering u-joints.
I was able to use all salvage pieces, but do have a fresh shaft with new borgenson joints. I have just not installed it yet. My application required 3 total u-joints, and a support to keep the thing from folding up.
I have rather large front shock mounts that were right in the path of the steering shaft, and I had to work around that.
Stock shock mounts will offer plenty of room, and trimming the inner fender can be kept to a minimum.
Pretty sure this has already been considered, but I wanted to throw it out there as a reminder.