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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:40 AM
  #1  
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From: Camp Douglas WI
Welder

What is the best welder to use for doing body work? Also what type of wire to use?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:57 AM
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I have a Linclon SP175 and it has serverd me very well so far. When I was looking for a welder I did a lot of research (alot of it on this board) and Lincoln and Hobart owners always had great things to say about them. That being said, I decided to go with the 220v version over the 140v one which is good for lighter metal work. If you plan to do some heavier steel welding like frame work then you should think about just getting a bigger welder. You may not be thinking about welding heavier steel now but if you think you may in the future then think seriously about spending a little more now to get something that can handle pretty much anything you throw at it. I picked mine up on ebay used for a pretty decent price but I see them on Craigslist pretty regularly for less than I paid for mine.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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lowtruckin has some good points if you think you'll need to weld thicker (3/16"+) stuff. A 220V welder is a great tool.

I was more constrained by a lack of bucks and bought a 110V welder. I have done MANY sheet metal patch panels and serious custom mods, including some welding on 1/8" material. I am very satisfied with my choice of a Lincoln Handy MIG. I use the .030 flux core (no gas) wire for 1/8" stuff and the .025 steel wire with gas for all sheet metal. I use a standard argon/co2 gas mix.

Make sure you get an auto-darkening helmet. They are great and can be had for low bucks at Harbor Freight. I got my cart from the Summit Racing catalog.

Here's a picture of my setup. I attached a work belt that holds all my tools. This setup wotks well for me.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 10:41 AM
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I have the Hobart Handler 185. Love it! You can see some of the work it has done for me, here:

Roger's Bodywork

I've welded 1/4" without any problem whatsoever, on an engine balancer, nice all-around welder. I have the shop wired for 220v, so that's not a problem I've heard great things about the Hobart 140 also, which I believe is a 110v machine.

R
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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I have a Millermatic 135 and I love it. I agree with the assessment for going with the 220V of you think you might want to weld on larger stuff. Make sure you get a welder that can handle shield gas. Flux core wire is messy and probably not what you want for sheetmetal.

I bought the Miller because it had infinately adjustable controls instead of the standard fixed detents.

Good luck
Bobby
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 11:14 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by bobbytnm

I bought the Miller because it had infinately adjustable controls instead of the standard fixed detents.
Good point Bobby.
I had read a lot about it being much better with the infinite heat controls which allow you to fine tune the heat setting. That was also another selling point for me.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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I bought the Harbor Freight 110v 90 welder back in 2001, and added the gas tank.. has 4 fixed power settings.

gas is SO much cleaner than flux..

Then 2 years ago, I came up with some extra cash, and found a Miller 180sd TIG and 170 Mig welders.. and WOW what a difference a variable power makes..

Sam
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 11:27 AM
  #8  
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Might as well add my .02$....For bodywork and 1/8" steel, a "quality" 110v welder is all you need, as mentioned above, size your wire to the material thickness... .023-.025 dia., (get one roll of each to dial in your welder for different metals). I always use a 25/75 argon mix, and might as well get a Large bottle ( cant remember the cubic ft..but it's about 5' tall..nothing breaks a good pace like running out of gas in the middle of a job. If you have the spare cash, go for a larger 220/180 amp unit for larger stuff on the frame, and keep your eye's on your local Craig's list for a nice small 110v unit...they often go for pretty cheap once the owners interest wanes...Also, use the same bottle for both welders, it's easy enough to swap-over, and you never need both at the sametime. The auto-dark helmet will be your best investment.Get a nice pair of gloves to weld with( I like Tillman), and get several pairs of the cheaper ones you find at the fleamkt for working with metal, those sharpe edges and corners will wear them out fast...and resist the urge to " touch " the welded pieces after welding ..yes they are hot, and they wear your gloves out faster..dont ask me how I learned this,...LoL!!
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 05:43 PM
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Welder

Ditto on the Miller 135/115V. If you are planning on from 3/16" - 24 guage this will do the job. Number .30 wire and 25/75 gas and your good to go. One more thing, it is best if you have a dedicated 20amp circuit just for your welder.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 05:55 PM
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Got an auto darking helmet for my birthday last year. Dont know why I waited so long. Its amazing how much better you can weld with one of theses.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 08:58 PM
  #11  
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Welder and stuff.

I have the Miller Extreme 375 plasma cutter. I love that tool.

I also have the Hobart Handler 180 - 240V welder. It reportedly will handle up to 5/16 thick steel. Much thicker than anything I plan to weld on my truck. Just bought it recently and am still dialing it in. Setting tensions, spool drag, gas volume, etc... I think I have it set up properly now.

Heavy duty hose rack?



My first 2 welded projects.


For now I am still practicing my welding until I gain a little more confidence. My welds are starting to look pretty good. Once I am confident then I will start welding on my truck. I don't want to be the hack job PO either. There's too many of them around.

I also have the Miller auto-darkening welding hood. My first thought when I struck the first arc with it on was; "Why did I wait so long?" That hood is fantastic. A little pricey but then I will never have to buy another one again.

Minor setback today. My AC unit went out over the weekend and had to be replaced. $2200 out of the truck fund.
 

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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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Only thing I can add is don't buy a cart...

I/e you just got a welder, why not make the cart your first project?
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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Oh yeh, plasma cutter!.. I cut the bed for the tubs with my cutter.

cardboard template, zip and done..

so many easy cuts now..

wish I had it back when I started on the chassis cuts for the volare clip..

Sam
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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From: Camp Douglas WI
Thank you for all the info. I would have to agree on the auto-darking hood I have one already. I have a hobart 220 wich is to big for body work. I have alot of options it looks like from what you all are saying. Thank you again
 
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Old Jun 23, 2008 | 09:10 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by driver96er
Thank you for all the info. I would have to agree on the auto-darking hood I have one already. I have a hobart 220 wich is to big for body work. I have alot of options it looks like from what you all are saying. Thank you again

Either your Hobart is on the fritzt, or maybe an ARC welder?...but certainly a 220V welder is not "too big" for body work.

What kind of Hobart do you have...is it a wire feed unit?
 
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