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Been having some noisese when I turn to the left at speed and when I come to a stop. I jacked the truck up yesterday and checked things out. Looks like the passengers side needs ball joints and the driverside has a bit of play in the wheel bearings. So looks like I got some work ahead. Any pointers or headsup before tackling this job? Are these common problems with these trucks because i think I remember seeing somes posts on these things?
Do a search for "Guzzle92".
He spent a considerable amount of time creating a web site of how-to's on various repair procecures for these trucks.
World class stuff.
Ok after reading these I see some things that I would have over looked(NEW SEALS). Thanks to everybody for the info. I see something in one of them that concerns me. I have the manual hubs with the lock and auto positions. With the hubs in the auto postion (which to me in the old days would be the free postion), when you put it in 4 wheel drive in the cab are the hubs supposed to be locked, even if they are in the auto postion??? That is something I have wondered about since I bought this truck and saw the hubs had a auto postion. If not what is the purpose of the auto postion? Why dont they just say lock or free?
Ok after reading these I see some things that I would have over looked(NEW SEALS). Thanks to everybody for the info. I see something in one of them that concerns me. I have the manual hubs with the lock and auto positions. With the hubs in the auto postion (which to me in the old days would be the free postion), when you put it in 4 wheel drive in the cab are the hubs supposed to be locked, even if they are in the auto postion??? That is something I have wondered about since I bought this truck and saw the hubs had a auto postion. If not what is the purpose of the auto postion? Why dont they just say lock or free?
Trucks with ESOF (electronic shif on the fly) 4 wheel drive use vacuum to lock the hubs when in the auto position and you turn the **** to 4hi or 4lo. The lock position is there for times when you want to make sure the hubs stay locked or when the auto lock craps out.
As far as replacing all your parts goes, follow the write-ups and take your time. If you live in a place that uses lots of road salt (like I do here in PA) the hubs might be a PITA to get loose. PB blaster is your best friend on this job along with renting a ball joint press from autozone ($90 deposit that you get back when you return the tool).
The whole ESOF auto hubs thing seems pretty cool, now that I understand how they are suppose to work. They havent worked since I owned the truck because I tried it when I first bought the truck(Not knowing they were suppose to work). I've never been a big fan of fully auto hubs. Seen to many crap out when your in a tight spot and really need them. Now I just gotta get them to work!
.......I've never been a big fan of fully auto hubs. Seen to many crap out when your in a tight spot and really need them. Now I just gotta get them to work!
Thats why they included the lock option instead of leaving you with a simple auto locker. When you lock it, you know its locked and it'll stay locked.
Got everything but my cyroed powerslots installed today. Thanks everyone for the helpful info! Found out why my hubs didnt work. The thrust washer with the four grooves was in backwards on the driverside and the yellow oring...MIA! Apparently the PO didnt know what they were doing and didnt have these helpful folks on these forums!!! The hardest part was finding something to drive that dang big axle to knuckle seal.
Glad you got it done Lee. When I did mine the Ford dealer pressed that large seal on for me for free... it was the least they could do after I bought over $80 in parts from them a few hours earlier that day
I spent about $180 for all seals and needle bearings. I did buy new studs for the wheel hub but I'll be returning them tomorrow them and one pack of the lock in hub o-rings. I just went ahead and got everything just in case...Didnt want to be without the truck any longer!!