The cold idle has been erratic and the Check engine light came on. Once the engine warms up its fine. I pulled the codes and got a P0171 System Lean Bank One. I cleaned the MAF Sensor (with contact cleaner) and it seemed to help. A few days later the light is back on with codes P0171 & P0174 System Lean Bank One and Two. I looked for vacumm leaks. Found None. Sprayed Starting Fluid all around the vacumm lines with the engine running and there was no change in the idle RPM's. I did a search on this site and there is talk about the IAC and O2 sensors causing this.

What should I do next?

 

When you go lean on both banks what are you going to look for?
I'd look for something in COMMON to Bank1 AND Bank2.
Define Lean. Too much air OR not enough fuel. Both can send you lean. The list of things that can cause both of these DTCs to go set at the same time is nearly endless.
I recently took the advice Steve gave and it worked. Can you monitor your STFTs while you spray the top end? Since the STFTs change very quickly unlike the LTFTs you'll see an immediate reaction when you hit the faulty area with the spray. This takes two people(one to spray and the other to monitor the STFTs) unless you a very long extension cord to your DLC. Actually it really does take two people to do this properly because one person has to spray the top end as the other closely watches the STFTs. You have to keep your as trained on the monitor as the other person is spraying because when you hit the bad spot the STFTS are going to change RIGHT NOW. That's what I love about this method. Keep a close eye on the STFTs as you spray all the rubber hoses. As soon as you hit a crack in a rubber hose you'll see the STFTs change. It's immediate because your O2s are reacting to the extra "fuel" you just added via the leak at the crack in the rubber hose. When you see the STFTs change(go even lean because you've added more fuel) look at that exact location and you'll find a broken hose or bad gasket or something that's allowing air in. This isn't the only thing that will cause these DTCs, but it's a very common one.

 

about 6 months ago my check engine light came on. pulled those codes. the engine was kinda struggling a little at idle. and i also started losing gas mileage.

i had people tell me O2 sensors, MAF, PCV valve, etc... i know a guy who owns an independant oil change place and he said he'd do the fuel injection service for me. cleaned everything out. immediately the engine started running better. gas mileage went through the roof. and the engine light hasnt come back on. been about 20,000 miles later now.

those codes can mean a number a things which is annoying. maybe its something as simple as mine. maybe youll need to change some sensors.

 

If it was always that simple most auto mechanics would be living in California collecting welfare and food stamps and married to a punk(I hear it's legal out there now as of Monday). Fortunately, things aren't that simple for the most part and mechanics aren't called mechanics anymore, but are lovingly referred to as technicians. You can't argue with success, but ask yourself what the chanced of getting the injector on both banks clogged at the same time are? Slim to none.

 

Check the rubber ell that comes off the back of the intake and connects to the PCV line. These crack all the time and cause a P0171 and P0174 code.

Easy to fix, you can even use a sparkplug boot if you can't find a factory ell.

 

I will have to echo yardbird post. Check the rubber elbow coming off the back of the intake. There is not much room between the intake and the firewall and the rubber elbow will eventually harden and break causing the leak which will throw these codes.

I had to use both hands/fingers to check the elbow and it broke off when I touched it, once I replaced the elbow and erased the codes... everything is good for over a year.

hugger94

 

Me too, that is pretty common on these engines.
Mine failed @ 32K miles and was replaced under warranty.