ok there maybe a forum on this but frankly i dont have time, im in a bind. About 2 weeks ago while driving my truck was completely intermittinly droping power. no flux in any gauges when it would happen. i thought ok maybe bad gas, becuase i possibly ruled out pump cuz if i floored it it wouldnt always loose power. BTW it is that absolute worst when backing up!!!! sounds like soft puttering and i have exhaust and CAI. somedays i didnt notice a thing others were bad. well this morning was the worst i drove about a 1/4 mile. i had no power, my hood and engine were vibrating like crazy. this is a very well maintained truck, i mean never missed a beat. NEW; alternator, fuel filter, clutch kit, tranny fluid. PLEASE HELP!!!!

 

Sounds like a clogged catalytic converter.

 

and that is fixed by replacement??

 

It is easy to tell. Check the catalytic converter when the vehicle is running. If it is clogged it will probably be a glowing cherry red. Check your muffler for the same cherry red appearence and yes it is only fixed by removal/ replacement.

 

before you change converter do a test. Cut a hole in exaust before converter, if truck runs well, change cat, if not, you can easily weld it.

But usually no power problem is related with ignition timing. What year is your ranger? May be SPOUT wire is broken, ore ignition module is bad. It can use CKP pulses (PIP) getting no advance pulses from ECM and there is no 10 dgr BTDC and variable depending on RPM and engine load ignition timing....

 

Welcome to FTE.

Is this 3.0L in your 2001 Ranger, if so how many miles on it?????

You may have more than one problem.

Do you have a Check Engine Light lit???? Even if you don't, have the computer scanned at your favorite autoparts store, as it could have pending codes stored that havent set the CEL yet, that'll offer up good clues as to what's going on.

Most autoparts stores will scan the computer at no cost if your having problems, some won't if the CEL isn't lit, so just leave the gas cap loose, to turn it on, while driving over there!!!!! Then post ALL the trouble code numbers found.

You said that some days it's ok & not so good other days & worst when backng up, but will sometimes go ok at full throttle up!!!????

Since you have modified the exhaust & air intake, does this mean you've also changed the air filter to a oiled cotton gauze or foam type?????

If so, I'd consider begining with pulling the MAF sensor & cleaning it with a non residual spray cleaner, that says it's recipe is specifically for cleaning MAF sensors.

These types of air filters can let more particles through to dirty up the MAF sensor & over oilng the filter can cause it to migrate down stream to the MAF, contaminate & uncalibrate it & cause it to fib to the computer about true airflow to the engine.

If you do Pablo's cat converter test, maybe consider pulling one of the upstream O2 sensors, to relieve exhaust back pressure & see if it runs better.
Or, breakout your vacuum gauge & do the test for a plugged exhaust system.

If it acts out on cool moist days, I'd maybe consider checking the spark plug wires quality & fit, on both ends.
If nothing is found, maybe consider doing a individual "wet down" test of the plug wires, with a spray bottle of water & see what happens.
Maybe do it at night, as breakdown is easier to see, but as bad as you say it's running, it should affect idle quality if the wires are bad or loose.

Just a bunch more troubleshooting thoughts, let us know what you find.

 

BTW... usually bad TFI ore broken SPOUT wire cause no codes.... Of course it is easy to diagnose with stroboscope (mark crankshaft pulley with wight paint....)