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I recently started using bio diesel. Possibly the cleaning action has caused one of my injectors to "leak". When I idle, it smokes pretty bad. When I get up to speed, it clears (probably more air) I am going to buy new injectors. From reading prior posts, I suspect I should buy 1850-1950 PSI injectors since I now have a turbo. Do I need to also buy a new (rebuilt) IP? I have read some interesting posts concerning shoddy rebuilds. How can I be sure I get a decent rebuilt and which IP should I get? What is the mfg. number of the injectors and IP I want? I am going to fill my filter with Diesel Kleen to try and flush the bad injector till I can replace them. I'm afraid I am "washing" the cylinder which will lead to problems. I believe the following are the numbers on my present IP. Standadyne D3DB2831 5013 7468333 1816251C95. Hope this is enough info. Thanks Tom
I have been getting my pumps from my local IH dealer for a good price for a remanufactured pump. They use the IH number on the pump cross the Stanadyne number.
Hey All. My experience and knowledge of "Rebuilt" equipment is that the item that "FAILED" will be replaced, plus seals. Now what I know of "RE-MANUFACTURED" is that the whole item is torn down, measured for wear, tolerances, etc., and "anything" not meeting manufacturers specs gets replaced. Some of the better manufacturer's use all new parts, and just the housing is old. Maybe some of these "rebuilt" pumps are just getting a $30 seal kit? What do you think?
Rule of thumb for some rebuilders is they ONLY replace parts below specs......for the money all new parts would be my choice if one could find out which rebuilder really does that......
5013 is for the 92.5 non turbo engine with E code injectors.......any adjustments are made to fuel flow and quantity as directed by the turbo manufacturer..... so contact them for their kit installation manuals....
New fuel filter(s) would be my first choice until the crud loosened up is all disposed of as best as possible.
Hey All. My experience and knowledge of "Rebuilt" equipment is that the item that "FAILED" will be replaced, plus seals. Now what I know of "RE-MANUFACTURED" is that the whole item is torn down, measured for wear, tolerances, etc., and "anything" not meeting manufacturers specs gets replaced. Some of the better manufacturer's use all new parts, and just the housing is old. Maybe some of these "rebuilt" pumps are just getting a $30 seal kit? What do you think?
You are basically right. If an item is remanufactured then all moving parts are to be replaced or reworked. Example of reworked part is a crankshaft.
Rule of thumb for some rebuilders is they ONLY replace parts below specs......for the money all new parts would be my choice if one could find out which rebuilder really does that......
5013 is for the 92.5 non turbo engine with E code injectors.......any adjustments are made to fuel flow and quantity as directed by the turbo manufacturer..... so contact them for their kit installation manuals....
New fuel filter(s) would be my first choice until the crud loosened up is all disposed of as best as possible.
I installed the turbo myself. I turned up the IP and built "ram air". The IP is 5013 and the injectors are E code. Since I now have a turbo, I want to replace the original (166,000 miles) with new G code. I'm wondering if the 5013 IP will be able to handle the pressure increase.
web search stanadyne , then look for their list of authorized repair facilities
rebuilders do not replace with all new parts
if they did their reman would cost more than a new pump from stanadyne
I still don't know whether I should replace the IP when I replace the injectors or wait and see. Will the 5013 handle the G injectors?
My 2 cents- buy a return seal kit/ injector installation kit, replace orings, remove injectors, replace copper ring, disassemble and clean injectors if they are wet at the head/assembly nut, then try your system before replacing pump. Cost will be $32 and some of your labor.
Not to hijack your thread but what do you all think of injectors with 191,000 miles on them. It seems to run good and doesn't smoke but I know some people change them every 100000 miles or more often. I know they are original because the paint on them matches the engine and they have no wrench marks. Do yall think I would gain anything by changing them or should I just let them be?
When you encounter a need to replace the orings and return hoses on the injectors, buy an installation kit and remove them and check for leakage at the assembly nut- disassemble and clean, reinstall if the truck had no running problems earlier.
I have 3 reasons for changing them.
1. They are original (166K miles)
2. I installed a turbo and this Forum recommends replacing with "G" injectors.
3. Mileage has dropped considerably.
My 2 cents- buy a return seal kit/ injector installation kit, replace orings, remove injectors, replace copper ring, disassemble and clean injectors if they are wet at the head/assembly nut, then try your system before replacing pump. Cost will be $32 and some of your labor.