dont kill me, another crossover question
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
dont kill me, another crossover question
so this is like my 8th thread on crossover steering, becuase i just actually found out what push pull steering was thanks to the d60 tech threads.
steering is the last thing keeping me from purchasing everything i need for a shackle flip.
does my truck have a factory crossover setup? its'd definitely not push pull. if it is, can i get a pitman arm for a 1997 f350 with 12" of suspension lift anywhere? i already have the one for a 6" susp. lift. i think thats all i'll really need to keep the angles decent, correct?
Dan_Hero/truck idiot - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
i feel like a newb.
steering is the last thing keeping me from purchasing everything i need for a shackle flip.
does my truck have a factory crossover setup? its'd definitely not push pull. if it is, can i get a pitman arm for a 1997 f350 with 12" of suspension lift anywhere? i already have the one for a 6" susp. lift. i think thats all i'll really need to keep the angles decent, correct?
Dan_Hero/truck idiot - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
i feel like a newb.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 5,277
Likes: 0
From: St George, SC I-95
ok...
youve got a ball joint D60 so there are no above the knuckle steering arms available that Im aware of. This poses the biggest problem. Crossover generally leaves the tie rod in its stock location and connects the drag link from the passenger knuckle steering arm to the steering box. Your problem is you cant buy a steering arm. A thought would be an Y steering linkage. This means your tie rod will be in the stock location but the TRE on the passenger side will have a hole for another TRE to fit inside....thus making a Y.
here is the TRE you need for this setup
TIE ROD END - CHEVY 1 TON ES2233L
Im not sure about a 12" lift. This style will cause the drag link to be at a pretty extreme angle even with a beef drop pitman arm.
Wait for a few more guys to comment before you go out and buy stuff.
youve got a ball joint D60 so there are no above the knuckle steering arms available that Im aware of. This poses the biggest problem. Crossover generally leaves the tie rod in its stock location and connects the drag link from the passenger knuckle steering arm to the steering box. Your problem is you cant buy a steering arm. A thought would be an Y steering linkage. This means your tie rod will be in the stock location but the TRE on the passenger side will have a hole for another TRE to fit inside....thus making a Y.
here is the TRE you need for this setup
TIE ROD END - CHEVY 1 TON ES2233L
Im not sure about a 12" lift. This style will cause the drag link to be at a pretty extreme angle even with a beef drop pitman arm.
Wait for a few more guys to comment before you go out and buy stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
Well, technically yes. . .your truck already has factory crossover steering. And yes, you can find obscenely long pitman arms. . .just don't let these guys know you bought one 
I would think the correct way to do your steering would be to buy an after market passenger side steering knuckle that is cast and machined on top to accept a steering arm (like the old Dana 44).
Solid Axle Dana 60 Balljoint Outer Steering Knuckles - OK4WD
Soild Axle Dana 60 Balljoint High Steer Arms - OK4WD
$310 for a knuckle and steering arm is not a bad price for better steering geometry and reduced bump steer.
After the knuckle and Steering arm, ream your tie-rod hole out on the steering arm so the end of your drag link flips down onto the top of the knuckle. Over all, you should gain 4+ inches like this and reduce your drop pitman arm to around 4"-6".
But in all seriousness, at 12" of lift, you should consider hydraulic steering.
I would think the correct way to do your steering would be to buy an after market passenger side steering knuckle that is cast and machined on top to accept a steering arm (like the old Dana 44).
Solid Axle Dana 60 Balljoint Outer Steering Knuckles - OK4WD
Soild Axle Dana 60 Balljoint High Steer Arms - OK4WD
$310 for a knuckle and steering arm is not a bad price for better steering geometry and reduced bump steer.
After the knuckle and Steering arm, ream your tie-rod hole out on the steering arm so the end of your drag link flips down onto the top of the knuckle. Over all, you should gain 4+ inches like this and reduce your drop pitman arm to around 4"-6".
But in all seriousness, at 12" of lift, you should consider hydraulic steering.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: Winter Garden, FL
what size tires are you going to be running with 12' of lift? thats alot of damn lift, and x2 what franken truck said, im not the smartest about steering and especially i know very little about hydro steering but you get if nothing else some sort of hydroassist, or atleast consider it
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 385
Likes: 0
frankentruck..thanks for the links. i will definitely look into buying some of those.
i'm gonna be running 44's on the truck. i was gonna go with an upgraded steering box, but i never thought of hydro assist.
i'm gonna be running 44's on the truck. i was gonna go with an upgraded steering box, but i never thought of hydro assist.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
STGFordCrazy04
Offroad & 4x4
39
Apr 11, 2015 10:06 AM
oneofakind97
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
33
Jul 21, 2014 02:52 PM
